Finland’s Nalle Hukkataival is back in the U.S. for an extended stay after the recent World Cup in Vail, CO. Word is that he did the 4th ascent of Daniel’s Woods’ Upper Chaos Canyon testpiece Jade (V15) after a few days of effort. More to come…
Update: Check out Hukkataival’s latest blog entry for more info on how it took him “two days and around ten full tries from the start”. BTW, the last picture gives you a good idea just how far Upper Chaos Canyon is above Lower Chaos on the far side of the lake.
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Nalle is KILLIN IT in the US! was psyched to learn about him in Chuck’s PURE and glad to see he’s still rockin out.
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v15…?
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You have a better idea?
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wader said v13 max
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bwahaahahahaha
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Awesome effort for a big dude.. So much for my “im too heavy for them crimps” excuse..
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i am no where near the level of anyone whos even attempted jade but i feel like if there have been 4 ascents in such a short amount of time it cant be considered one of the hardest climbs in the world
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Erm…. Daniel, Ty, Paul, and Nalle? Bunch of pussies really. Couldn’t be that hard.
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It has been almost 2 years since the FA. While 4 ascents would normally be a lot, the fact that Daniel, Paul, Ty and Nalle are 4 of the best boulderers in the world should mean something. It is amazing that it has so many ascents given just how difficult it is to simply reach the boulder, let alone climb on it.
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i disagree, narcface. “difficult to reach” is not the reality of the front range scene. most of us are used to long approaches… which colorado is notorious for. so, i would argue that the number of repeats is not related to it being easier than other v15s in the world, but rather it is relatively -very- accessible and the wealth of hard lines in rmnp, along with the school and fun of boulder, brings tons of the strong climbers here who are keen on trying it.
basically, it is part of the frontrange locust circuit whereas the lines in europe, etc, may not be. sure the euros can swarm too, but when they do, the lines tend to be downrated. jade’s grade has interestlingly stayed intact with repeats.
remember that some of those who have sent jade are also of the group that gangbanged some of the 14s and 15s in south africa… which they felt were easier in comparison.
that said, there has to be more and more-better v15s in colorado… the green 45 wall is ultra cool, but it’s lines tend to rely on the aesthetic nature of the wall rather than the actual movement. i hope that jade was the tip of the iceberg for colorado 15s and up… and with all the talent here right now and a few of the newly or re-discovered projects, it just might be…
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Jade is not particularly interesting to watch people climb, that is for sure.
I suppose you are right about the location in that being close to Boulder makes any hard problem relatively accessible just because of how many strong climbers come to visit. Suspension of Disbelief seems to be an exception to that rule though (Although its style and finding the right conditions seem to be a factor with that one having so few ascents) .
I guess a good comparison might be to Warpath in Idaho. If it was near Boulder or in an area like Hueco or Bishop it would probably have been repeated by now, no?
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true true. suspension is a strange animal… eldo seems either to be covered in snow or to be too hot and tick infested. also, lots of the strong kids bitch at the coarse nature of the stone, so really projecting something tends to be less alluring to them rather than just going up, flashing all the 10s/11s and rolling out.
also, suspension has a high committing finish. let’s face it, most folks really pushing the grades are not doing so high off the deck. most of the really hard lines i’ve seen media of tend to be safe. or, if they do have tall finishes, the finish tends to be easy… like jade. this isn’t a critisisim of the climbers, but rather just pointing out the obvious. i certainly do not push my max on highballs… that’s what the turds are for! when it comes to the cutting edge in raw difficulty, the pros are no different.
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Here’s a video of the fourth ascent, figured it should be here: http://deadpointmag.com/dpm-hd/28-nalle-hukkataival-on-jade-v15
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