Dave Graham has added a sit start to the V13 Boogalagga in Chironico, Switzerland that he is calling Big Paw. He has suggested a grade of V15 for this new problem. You can read the full story at the Big Up Blog.

Keepin It Island: (Another) New V15 From Dave Graham
Posted In: Asides, Bouldering, News
Climbers: Dave Graham
Areas: Chironico
16 Responses to Keepin It Island: (Another) New V15 From Dave Graham
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2012 Dominion River Rock Women’s Climbing Highlights
May 22, 2012 1 Commentloading...
The Hardest Move Excerpt: Woods & Robinson At 2010 Vail World Cup
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Hayden Kennedy Climbing Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)
May 14, 2012 6 Comments-
Jesse: "I think that breathing is something that is very...
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Hugo Watt: I prefer watching Hayden doing the route over Nick...
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Chris V.: on an unrelated note...thanks for the stickers, Na...
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Kenny: Just noticed that most of these pictures are in th...
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Narc: I think it's pretty clear that Keith's focus lie...
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Andrew: I'd pay for a book like that if he got someone to...
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Andrew Krueger: I preferred seeing Nick Martino work this route. ...
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Oz
May 23, 2012
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“You think it will be cool till it isn’t fun anymore”
May 23, 2012
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Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jon Cardwell
May 22, 2012
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Regular Dude Climbs Just Do It (5.14c)
May 22, 2012
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What Did You Do This Weekend?
May 21, 2012
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Ethan Pringle On Jumbo Love
May 18, 2012
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Video Friday – 5/18/2012
May 18, 2012
News & Notes
Oz
This incredible photo essay by Keith Ladzinski from his trip to Australia last year with Dave Graham, Nalle Hukkataival and Ian Dory would make a great coffee table book don’t you think? (h/t Josh on twitter for the link).
“You think it will be cool till it isn’t fun anymore”
The North Face catches up with their athlete Alex Honnold to find out a bit more about his and Tommy Caldwell’s big day in Yosemite, his plans to rope solo the same feat for his segment in the Reel Rock Tour and a casual mention of how he free soloed the West Face of El Cap. As to how the idea for the triple link-up came about:
You do one route and you have a lot of time left in the day and you think, “Oh maybe we should have done two.” And eventually you do two with time left over and you say, “maybe we could do three…” and we did three and we didn’t have any time left over so we said, “we’re over it.”
More detail and pictures from Kelly Cordes on the big day here as well.
Bad Girls Club (5.14d) Repeated By Jon Cardwell
According to his 8a scorecard, Jon Cardwell has repeated Bad Girls Club, a 5.14d in Rifle, CO first done last summer by Matty Hong.






An unfortunate side effect of the horrible weather in Switzerland (and other areas) this fall has been the complete lack of updates for armchair climbers like yours truly to read about! How can we obsessively read about the exploits of others if they are never able to get out climbing??? Stop the snow and rain!!!
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AND the injuries….
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yes no more injuries!
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No more injuries, no more temps outside a sliding range of 40-60 degrees and no more bad skin!
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40-60 seems like a high range to me. might be an interesting topic for discussion. My brother and i were remarking last night about how when it gets quite cold (read: 0 degrees C) my climbing ability goes way up. Perhaps this is a combination of poor finger strength and good circulation…
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Yeah, that would be interesting. I enjoy comfortable temps for most climbing, but for climbing at one’s limit the colder the better I suppose. You probably climb your best when it is coldest because you have no choice but to send, no time to stand around and think about it.
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i’ve found that i’m much better at 45 degrees. warm enough that you can keep limber with a good jacket and cold enough for the crushage without dead hands or pain. that said, i’d rather session at 10 degrees than 80 any day.
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Speaking of cold temps…dodge not this weekend but next one? eh eh eh? is there anything left there that could be hard?
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I will be home methinks, all depends on the temps getting above a certain point. It would be helpful if it stopped snowing too.
I am not aware of any undone hard lines other than the right variation to alpine bouldering club.
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If it’s nice out (like 30 or more and little snow) I could be down for the Dodge next weekend (not this coming one). I think the “Crack Project”, which is Sweaty’s Illusions line using just the crack under the roof, has not been sent, it’s posted up as V7ish. Also someone posted up something right there also, the Bulge Project, which is listed at V6, but I have not been over there since August and have trouble remembering what lay to the right of Illusions, so I have no idea what that is all about. I think those 2 are unsent also, but really not sure about quality.
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Actually, “The Bulge” may have been sent. My bad. Whatever.
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Too cold? You need this:
http://www.coleman.com/coleman/ColemanCom/detail.asp?product_id=5035A750
It’s the revolution that’s sweeping Wisconsin. JW
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PS– Brian, the right undone version of A.B.C.? Exactly how do you mean this? aka the “Tittie Twister” project?
I did see Travis do this line directly– that is, using those crappy crimps/rail up to the topout without using the hueco out left. I think that Remo or someone else had also done it the day before though.
JW
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Yes, the titty twister deal is what I meant. When I did ABC I didn’t use the jug around left either. Seems more fun that way, not sure about harder though.
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I thought the moves were somewhat undignified, but we all have our own styles.
JW
PS- I’ll message you on FB later this evening.
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I’m sure there’s lots of stuff to find yet if you wanted to venture around to areas that haven’t been checked out yet… and I would much much much prefer climbing at 80 than 10. I suppose my summer record shows that. haha. anyways this weather does not seem condusive to getting outside.
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