- James Pearson, who is better known on this site for having flashed 3 V13 boulder problems, recently returned to the Gritstone of the UK to establish a new E10 route on the Cratcliffe Groove. You can download a video preview of Pearson working the route by clicking here. It doesn’t sound like falling from the crux V12 crux would be all that fun:
Dave Brown, who filmed Pearson on the route for Hot Aches, said The Groove has two cruxes, with the four-move first crux being the most dangerous. “There is gear in the break, but we carefully measured the length of the fall from the end of the dyno, and the belayer needs to take in about five feet to avoid the climber hitting the ground,” he said. “Doesn’t sound [like] much to take in, but it would have to be split-second.”
James Pearson on The Groove (E10 7b)
© David Simmonite Photography
- You have to check out this insane topo for the main cave at Santa Linya, Spain. Since this topo was created even more new routes have been established in this massive cave. Click the picture for an expanded view:
- You may have seen this photo of Kevin Jorgeson scampering up the gigantic east face of Grandpa Peabody in the Golden Piton edition of Climbing. Check out this post from the photographer, one Andrew Mann, where he explains how he captured this awesome image.
- I hadn’t really posted much about the latest climbing movie “Spray” that came out recently. I’m not really sure why, the concept and locations look very cool. Anyway, you can read a review of last week’s premier at the Boulder Theatre and check out SprayMovie.com for more info on ordering. Here is the trailer:
[youtube=http://youtube.com/watch?v=Ce_JjalXLRY]
- Speaking of the Spray premier, Frontrange Bouldering was there with an interesting report. Along with good insight on the scene that night, there are rumors circling about a new gym coming to the Boulder area. How many gyms does one city need?
- Today is the last day for the MVM subscription contest. The winner will be revealed tomorrow morning.
- Have something you want to promote? You can now advertise with Climbingnarc.com. Click here for details.
- Have local climbing news, stories, pictures, videos access issues or anything else you want to share? Please let me know.
And finally…
There was recently a very large fire at the Alpinist Magazine warehouse, destroying everything inside. You can now purchase somewhat humorous T-Shirts that poke fun at the cause of the fire (forklift ramming a gas pipe) and help a good cause at the same time. Every T-shirt sold means another $3 donated to the Access Fund!
That route looks intense, I can’t believe he uses that tiny pebble.
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Yes, it is quite a testament to the rock quality that a “hold” that small and pebbly actually stays on the wall. Pretty insane looking climbing although it doesn’t look all that fun.
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What are the two pictures on the right of the banner?
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One is from when I was in Alaska and the other is you at the Dodge on the boulder we warmed up on.
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Woah, totally didn’t recognize myself or the dodge.
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I am super excited for the movie spray. There tour is coming to Salt Lake next week and I can’t wait to check it out. I will be writing a full review of the movie on my climbing site (http://www.rock-climbing-for-life.com) for anyone who is interested.
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