loading...
Kevin Jorgeson and Carlo Traversi spend a few minutes with Bear Grylls in the Discovery Channel Adrenaline Lab

Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson returned to Yosemite late last month to resume work on their Dawn Wall project. Unfortunately, Kevin has been sidelined, at least temporarily, by an ankle injury sustained while working one of the pitches. Tommy is still there doing his thing though, and in this piece for the Cleanest Line he talks about what drives him to work on projects like this:
The formula is pretty set. Dream up a climbing trip or pick a climbing objective, then direct my life towards that goal… whatever it takes. I have come to depend on the stress and pain. For me, a day without suffering is like a day without sunshine. I stuff my gnarled, fungus infested feet into shoes three sizes too small and climb until my fingers bleed. And if that wasn’t enough I have decided I prefer to do this on really big climbs where the pain can stretch on for days, weeks, even months.
You can follow their progress by following Tommy and Kevin on Twitter, by checking out the El Cap Report or better yet just waiting for me to share any updates I come across.
A few lingering pieces of News & Notes left over from my recent vacation…
After the summer of 2010 saw an explosion in development thanks mainly to the efforts of Dave Graham, the summer of 2011 looks to be one of repeats and consolidation in Colorado’s alpine bouldering hotspots
Climbing in Yosemite takes center-stage in the May 2011 issue of National Geographic Magazine
News & Notes from Nina Caprez, Cedric Lachat, Kevin Jorgeson, Fred Nicole and much more…
Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.
Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.
Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
1 CommentAlex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
5 Comments© 2012 Climbing Narcissist. All Rights Reserved.

Recent Comments