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Oh boy.. impressive effort..
At 13:33 there’s something weird. Right before the far shot cuts away, a mess of something appears on the ledge, due to editing. Is that camera stuff set up on the ledge that they edited out of the other frames, but not that frame?
Wow, good eye Seth! I got it paused right on that frame and yes it does look like a haul bag and other equipment.
Hauling bag, equipment and the guy who filmed the close-up of him topping it 😛
Totally! I didn’t realize you could edit all of that out of a video. very interesting
Sketchy groundup trad? Badass. Toprope rehearsed sketchy trad? Still pretty cool. Toprope rehearsed sketchy trad on mostly preplaced gear. Really? Really???
If I can relate climbing to sex here: a normal person would probably use a condom most times but forgo it when unavoidable, and maybe even just for fun. A brit spends most of a winter mastering the art of finishing on command while sitting in a dark shed, then goes to an aids clinic, puts on a condom, finds an extra sick woman, has intercourse until near completion, then quickly pulls out, cuts a hole in his condom while putting another condom on, and then releases while hoping for the best.
The risk is still there. Falling is possible even on climbs some one may have wired. And it looked like he could have fallen at the crux. Very difficult and hats off to Tim for crushing what looks like an amazing line!
Im not saying its not risky, im saying its a stupid, stupid, stupid ethic.
I think your comment is stupid, stupid,stupid guido princess this dude is clearly bad ass, major props for opening a committing line.
Your analogy is crude, but I think everyone understands where you are coming from. Personally, it feels weird that certain pieces of gear are allowed to be preplaced/preslung, pitons allowed in some places, while other pieces of gear need to be placed on lead..
But guess what– all climbing ethics are arbitrary and “stupid,” I don’t think it’s really possible to defend any climbing style as “better” or “worse” than any other. I enjoyed this piece of climbing, and appreciate the risks and the mental zone this guy had to go through.
Nothing is “allowed” or “not allowed”. There is no official rulebook. We’re climbing on rocks. Do whatever you want. Challenge yourself. Be honest. Don’t be a dick. Don’t permanently alter the route. Pretty basic stuff here people.
As far as I can tell, he placed 2 pieces, and clipped one pre-hung piece during the meat of the climb. There looks to be a lower “anchor” (nest) , maybe someone who climbs here can tell us if there is usually an easier climb up to there. The fact that the video hardly even shows him climbing that part means (I think), that it is quite a bit easier than the rest. So, since that guy seems like the man, and the expressions he uses are incredible (‘BRILLIANT’, ‘I just don’t have the guns!’), I’m going to assume he would have placed all 3*, that’s 3 for like a 100ft+ climb, except that he got one of them stuck so he just decided to clip it too. Awesome vid. Cool place. Sweet dreads. Keep all that neoKantian absolutism outta my climbing life.
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