Progression Excerpt: Kevin Jorgeson Climbing On Grit

13 Responses to Progression Excerpt: Kevin Jorgeson Climbing On Grit

1. 

   Narc February 17, 2010 at 5:55 pm #

   If you are interested in yet another pointless debate about the suggested grade of the route depicted in the video…you know where to find it…

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     Mark February 17, 2010 at 6:13 pm #

     Heh. Just came here to post the same thing.

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2. 

   toothbrush February 18, 2010 at 12:02 pm #

   No, I don’t know where to find it? Not interested in commenting but I’m interested in the drama. U talking about James Pearson’s blog remarks on Kevin’s ascent?

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     Narc February 18, 2010 at 12:12 pm #

     I was jokingly referring to 8a.nu although the discussion has remained (mostly) civil. There is actually a valid point to be raised about Kevin’s route being depicted as “The Groove” when he in fact did a variation on Pearson’s line.

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       toothbrush February 18, 2010 at 12:25 pm #

       Well, it all seems very vague to me. The progression clip doesn’t show the portion of the upper crux in dispute from James’ comments (back in Feb of ’09) so I was wondering what the hubub was about.

       http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2009/01/groove-during-onslaught-of-team-america.html

       Oddly enough, while James was whining about Kevin’s ascent of his route (it sounded like whining to me, he’s likely a stand up guy and obviously a bad ass climber, so no need for anyone to re-comment on that one) and comparing how Kevin would feel if someone repeated Ambrosia with a variation and still claimed it was Ambrosia; that variation actually happened with Alex Hollond’s recent 2nd ascent of Ambrosia while Kevin spotted him from 45 below. He’s a classy guy.

       I’ll stop now….sorry.

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3. 

   Mark February 18, 2010 at 12:43 pm #

   No, Toothbrush, you have a legitimate point. Its true the Honnold (not Hollond [sic]) did a variation of Kevin’s line on Ambrosia, though I think, like variations done on things like Realization/Biographie by Graham, it sticks to the same line, just uses a different hold that wasn’t used by Kevin. The question (which I don’t know the answer to because I have yet to read the Pearson blog, but will do so now) is whether Kevin completely climbed off the line, on to an easier one, then traversed back on. Theres a difference between using a hold that was deemed unusable (you could get me started on the idea of chipping because there were no usable holds, but someone else could come along and see plenty, but I won’t go there… oh wait, I just did, whoops), and traversing off the line.

   However, I will say, this is all trivial. Its climbing. You might climb to enjoy climbing and push yourself, or whatever it might mean to you to climb. If you climb to climb someone elses line move for move, thats your prerogative too. All I know is, I want to go to the Red. Anyone with me? I promise I won’t call you out if you don’t climb the right line.

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4. 

   Kevin Jorgeson February 18, 2010 at 4:22 pm #

   Honnold did no new variation on Ambrosia. Different hand sequence. No big deal. I tried to repeat The Groove as James established it. It was hard and a little squeezed (a foot match away from a no hand rest and an E3 finish). So, as I documented thoroughly and openly while I was over there, I took the line that struck me as the most obvious and natural. No, it wasn’t the same line as James, so I never claimed the second ascent of The Groove as James did it. As I said after I did it, just climb whatever line inspires you. That’s what makes climbing so great. Do what you want and be honest about it. Can we all go climbing now?

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     Mark February 18, 2010 at 5:39 pm #

     Thanks for posting Kevin. By variation, I did mean sequence, and I thought I could clear that up. He did a different sequence, and then claimed the 2nd. You did a variation on The Groove that suited you. I meant no disrespect, and meant to say nothing to diminish what you’ve done, so I hope you didn’t take it that way, my words just failed to convey my thoughts.

     This is why I don’t like talking about climbing online. Its such a personal thing. Climb what you love, love to climb, go climb. Thats the best way to stay out of trouble in these little online speculation cases.

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       Kevin Jorgeson February 18, 2010 at 5:47 pm #

       None taken.

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5. 

   Narc February 18, 2010 at 4:38 pm #

   Thanks for stopping by to help clear things up Kevin, I appreciate it. I didn’t mean to rehash a conversation about the route as that was well documented as you stated. Just wanted to share the video!

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6. 

   Kevin Jorgeson February 18, 2010 at 4:43 pm #

   No worries man. People will always talk. I’m going to post a link to the trip report I did while on the Grit here shortly. That way, any questions can (again) be answered.

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7. 

   Kevin Jorgeson February 18, 2010 at 4:51 pm #

   http://www.kevinjorgeson.com/TravelsOLD.pdf

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8. 

   toothbrush February 18, 2010 at 5:28 pm #

   see what I mean…classy guy. 🙂

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