Climbers Archives: Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra – A Few Forgotten 9a Routes

Posted April 30, 2013 at 5:43 pm · Comments { 1 } ·
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Change

Posted March 7, 2013 at 1:44 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Adam Ondra, writing for Black Diamond about his route Change (5.15c):

I have had many significant changes in my life recently. The end of school turned my life and climbing into completely different perspective. Loads of time, total freedom to travel wherever I want is something I had been dreaming about for years. Finally I have the time to travel abroad along with a drill and create something inspiring enough to put a massive effort into. To find the first proof of this change, instead of heading south as always when we go climbing, we headed north instead. Change is life.

Don’t miss the accompanying video.

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Adam Ondra Making The First Ascent Of Change, The World’s First 9b+ (5.15c)

Posted March 7, 2013 at 1:10 pm · Comments { 18 } ·
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Adam Ondra Trying Somos Cromosomos Project In Southern Spain

Posted February 25, 2013 at 12:41 pm · Comments { 1 } ·
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Lowering Off The Pressure

Posted February 19, 2013 at 10:00 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Adam Ondra, writing about his efforts on La Dura Dura for La Sportiva:

As I felt so strong, I decided not to take another restday, and try the very next day. Lowering off the pressure, taking it less seriously. But from the morning, I had doubts about this decision. My forearms were a little sore, Chris typed me a message that he was taking rest as he felt sore. But I persisted.

For me this is one of the big takeaways from this send that can be relevant  for all climbers, not just mutants.  It took me a long time to realize this—and in many ways I still struggle to harness this knowledge—but oftentimes success in climbing comes at times when your mind least expects it.

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Adam Ondra’s Onsight Attempt On Palestina (5.14d)

Posted February 14, 2013 at 9:21 am · Comments { 5 } ·
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Just Another Weekend For Adam Ondra

Posted February 11, 2013 at 7:03 am · Comments { 5 } ·

Once again not resting on his success, Adam Ondra went right back to work this weekend in Spain.  Friday he did the 2nd ascent of Chris Sharma’s Fight Or Flight (5.15b) at Oliana and then Saturday he onsighted two 5.14b’s at Cuenca according to 8a.nu.

In Dura Dura follow-up news, 9b has a good interview with Ondra where he touches on a few things including what he learned during the 9 week process of projecting this route:

That after two weeks of working the same route, it is very difficult to make further progress. That was quite suprising to me.
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The 3rd and 4th weeks on La Dura Dura were completely pointless, I was climbing one level below and no matter how efficiently I climbed, I couldn’t and didn’t progress.

A nice gallery of images of Ondra on the route can be seen here.

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