I think it’s safe to say that Ty Landman has been having an above average trip to Fontainebleau. On the heels of his ascents of Kheops Assis (V14) and Gecko Assis (V14), Landman recently repeated Satan I Helvete Bas (V14). This is all in addition to having climbed several V13s as well. All this in only his first month in Font! Look for video of Landman’s ascents to be coming from Keith of UncleSomebody fame in the near future.
In related news, the Moonclimbing blog is now functioning again for U.S. readers! Since Landman has eschewed updating his 8a card, the Moonblog is THE place to learn about his exploits. Check it out to get caught up on the past several weeks of action.
Also, I returned from our vacation to Florida to find these gems waiting for me at my desk. Now if I could find a way to get out climbing without further pain!
Nice looking shoes. How do they size (compared with other Five Tens) – it looks as though they will stretch a bit like Moccasyms…
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Sick. I noticed yesterday that the Moon Blog was up for us again. Thankfully. Also psyched to hear how the projects fit compared to others you’ve had.
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I got them the same size as my Mocs which would be size 9. I wear 10.5 in street shoes and other Five Ten shoes like the Dragons. I tried one of the Projects on and it seemed fairly improbable that it would even go on my foot. However, after a few minutes of work I got the shoe on. My understanding is that they will stretch a bit so I’m expecting the fit to get better as I use them. I’ll be posting a full review once I have a chance to use them for a bit.
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Woah! Which shoes are those? They look like they’re half velcro half slipper.
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They are called the Project and your description is pretty accurate. They have a new fangled rubber called “Mystique” that should be interesting to try out.
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Hot damn! That’s the one with the 2mm sole right? I can’t wait to hear what you think of them.
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Indeed. I’ve heard mixed things so I can’t wait to try them out.
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I’m surprised that they look like an aggressive shoe. That rubber sounds like it would make for the best slab and crack shoes.
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I believe the softness also means there isn’t much support for standing on small edges which is why it is more of a roof climbing shoe.
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yeah, not sure you could get slab domination out of em.. maybe so though. seems like folks would love these for the same purposes many loved the sportiva mantra: roofs and superhot sloper glom action. read: HP40, blocky limestone and anywhere your feet need to mold to the stone rather than edge against it.
as far as soft shoes on slabs, check out sonnie trotter’s blog for a discussion on soft v. stiff for slabby stuff.
i’d like to hook up the project and the speedster to a rockem sockem robots game and have them battle it out to the death.
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The speedster does look cool. Hoping that it’s better than the venoms were for me.
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sounds like the old Sportiva Mantra slipper only with a piece of velcro to me… Loved the fit of those shoes but the main problem was that I have naturally terrible footwork and the Mantras only exaturated this personal flaw. lol
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they are pretty looking though arent they?
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i think that both companies improved on the old mantra with two key features:
1. a real heel
2. rubber over the big toe knuckle
i’m psyched on the fact that the speedster is built on the same last as the muira/cobra with the same heel… which for me, personally, is super bomber save for the delamination that i sometimes experience on grevious heel grappling. more than the heel, however, the last itself should power up the toe box much better than the venom, which was floppy for me.
i’ve always thought that a soft shoe should be able to flex when you try to make a “fist” with your foot [which gives you the supreme feel for the rock], but should be built to resist flattening out via a rand-tension system. the venom didn’t resist upward flex of the toes very well, which made it fantastic for toe hooking and super comfy, but left it weaker than even the mantra for edging and front pointing whjen you had to.
bottom line: seems like both competitors have improved upon sportivas’ original concept.
i’ll be psyched to get a pair of speedsters and battle with the narc on the techy details!
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and battle we shall!
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http://phillipschaal.blogspot.com/2009/03/moment.html
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