After seeing the video at momentumvm.com that features Matt Segal doing the FA of Iron Monkey (5.14) on natural gear, I have to say that I was a bit intrigued. I contrasted that with a similar video on the same site of Cedar Wright doing the FA of a trad line at Indian Creek on pre-placed gear.
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I don’t pretend to be a purist or an expert on trad climbing, but I couldn’t help but think that Matt’s style and approach are just worlds better. To me climbing on preplaced gear is a lot closer to sport climbing than trad climbing but somebody can correct me on that if they feel like it.
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Matt working Iron Monkey. Photo by Jonathon Copp
It was at this point that I came across a great article in Alpinist Magazine on Matt Segal and where he draws his motivation and ethics from. It is rather long but it is definitely a worthwhile read. It also has some really nice photos by Jonathon Copp.
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remember me from gym in miami? craig and giuli. so you and kennan live in boulder co? i live in brighton colorado.
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