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Unwrapping Mi Regalo Favorito With Alex Honnold

Posted April 22, 2013 at 10:51 pm · Comments { 1 } ·
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Ethan Pringle Climbing Era Vella (5.14d)

Posted April 22, 2013 at 9:31 am · Comments { 1 } ·
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→ Andrea Hah Repeats Punks In The Gym (5.14a)∞

Posted April 21, 2013 at 11:03 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

It’s been a busy time for notable repeats of historically significant 5.14a’s, what with Paige Claassen and Drew Ruana repeating America’s first 5.14a To Bolt Or Not To Be  and now Aussie Andrea Hah doing the 2nd female ascent of the first 5.14a in the world, Wolfgang Gullich’s Punks In The Gym at Mt. Arapiles.

Nice interview with Andrea here as well.

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→ 5.14c Onsight By Magnus Midtbø In Rodellar∞

Posted April 18, 2013 at 11:12 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Nice write-up with pictures from Henning Wang by Magnus Midtbø about his onsight of Cosi fan tutti (5.14c) in Rodellar, Spain:

It was a very satisfying feeling to for once win a desperate on-sight battle expecially since only 4 other climbers have ever on-sighted an 8c+ route before (Patxi Usobiaga, Adam Ondra, Alexander Megos (9a) and Ramon Julian Puigblanque). I feel like I’m in the shape of my life after investing so much time in Neanderthal. Unfortunately it didn’t go this season, but at least I got to put the shape in good use.

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→ To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) By 13-Year-Old Drew Ruana∞

Posted April 18, 2013 at 8:32 am · Comments { 0 } ·

13-Year-Old Drew Ruana notches his 5th 5.14a with a repeat of To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) in Smith Rock, OR:

Although the grade is the same, what Drew just did is a huge step up in difficulty

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Viva La Vie

Posted April 18, 2013 at 8:23 am · Comments { 6 } ·
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→ 5.14c FA By Dan Mirsky At The Cathedral∞

Posted April 16, 2013 at 5:16 pm · Comments { 7 } ·

DPM interviews Dan Mirsky after he did the FA of Solid Gold, a proposed 5.14c in Utah’s Cathedral:

So basically, Solid Gold is the most straight up way to climb the main awesome cave feature which is how it avoids all the rests and possibly makes it the hardest iteration of Golden. The style of the route is total power endurance; basically bouldery sequences with marginal rests the whole way starting with the one leaving Space Shuttle and culminating with the crux of Golden, an amazing sequence of spraggle pockets and tufa pinches on some of the best limestone I have touched. It is in my opinion the coolest crux sequence I have ever done.
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