Mike Doyle, writing on his blog about becoming “the oldest, shortest, weakest and least talented climber” to repeat the rarely-repeated Chris Sharma testpiece Necessary Evil (5.14c) in Arizona’s Virgin River Gorge:

I’ve had quite a few people say they think it’s amazing that I work full time and was able to climb this route. I really do appreciate that and yes, I do work a lot but honestly that’s not the part I am most proud of. I’m proud that this route was hard for me and I did it.
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I set myself up pretty well to be able to get out once during the week and on weekends. The community in Vegas stepped up to support me and made it possible. Everyone is different and has different ‘distractions’ in their life. I don’t hold myself above anyone else because I work full time and can’t climb at a peak level all the time. It’s a choice I made, continue to make, and a lifestyle I accept. My work is just my distraction.

Work is a distraction for a lot of us, it’s just that for the vast majority¹ of us we don’t climb 5.14c when we aren’t distracted. I say well done to you, Mike, and congratulations!
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You can see some video of Mike working the route here.

Dare I say all? ↩

∞ · Comments { 2 } · Climbers { 1 }

Mike Doyle

· Areas { 1 }

Virgin River Gorge

→ Petition To Save Geyikbayiri∞

Posted February 17, 2015 at 3:41 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Bad news about potential mining at the Turkish sport climbing paradise, Geyikbayiri:

Rock climbing at Geyikbayiri, one of biggest and the most famous sport climbing areas in Turkey, may be at risk due to a project that received official permission at the end of last year to explore the possibility of mining in the area. Should marble suitable for quarrying be found, this would affect circa 350 of the 1000 routes at Geyikbayiri, in the sectors Cesme, Sarkit, Mağara, Anatolia, Dragon, Güzel Manzara, Posaidon, Ottoman, Mevlana, Barbarossa, Akdeniz and Ekos. At present the mining research has not yet started and a grass-action climber’s protest has sprung up against this recent development.

You can sign the petition here.

∞ · Comments { 1 } · Climbers { 0 }