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For Tito, Forever In Our Hearts

Posted September 11, 2013 at 12:30 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

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→ More 5.14s In Idaho From Jonathan Siegrist∞

Posted September 11, 2013 at 8:31 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Jonathan Siegriest has wrapped up a successful trip to the Fins in southeast Idaho, adding a few new 5.14s to what is becoming a pretty fully developed wall for hard face climbing:

It’s not the biggest, or most extensive crag in the country but if face climbing is your stoke then honestly this area can not be missed. The discovery wall alone hosts nearly a dozen 5.13s and 5 5.14s, with a slew of 12’s to fill in the gaps.
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I doubt that it will ever develop into a uber popular crag – it’s in the middle of nowhere, it’s generally hard, the road to the camping is super burly and the hard routes are quite sporting.
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But for those of us that love this place – here’s to another rad season and hopefully I’ll see you out there again!

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Jonathan Siegrist

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The Fins

→ New 5.14 By Sonnie Trotter∞

Posted September 5, 2013 at 1:56 pm · Comments { 6 } ·

Always nice to see Sonnie Trotter in the news:

Sonnie Trotter has just completed his summer project,Castles in the Sky, on Castle Mountain in the Canadian Rockies. The bolted route, rated 5.14a, rises five pitches up a prow on a lower buttress of the mountain. While the route features moderate pitches of rock near the bottom, a dramatic overhanging arête guards access to the route’s final and easier pitches.
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The key to success?? WWTCD of course:

When things got tough, however, he would ask himself “what would Tommy Caldwell do?”

∞ · Comments { 6 } · Climbers { 1 }

Sonnie Trotter

· Areas { 1 }

Castle Mountain

Trailer: Reel Rock 8

Posted September 5, 2013 at 1:47 pm · Comments { 2 } ·

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World-Class Piece of Schist – Rumney, NH | Lost in North America, Ep. 1

Posted September 3, 2013 at 7:28 am · Comments { 2 } ·

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→ Chris Sharma Conquers La Dura Dura∞

Posted August 29, 2013 at 10:40 am · Comments { 26 } ·

Interesting piece by Andrew Bisharat for Prana looking at Chris Sharma’s journey to climb La Dura Dura (5.15c):

Some five years ago, La Dura Dura didn’t exist other than as a simple, vague desire within Sharma to progress as a climber. In 2008, at 27 years old, Sharma had just sent Jumbo Love, thereby establishing the first rock climb rated 5.15b. This was actually the second time Sharma had advanced the world standard; in 2001, he climbed Realization, the first 5.15a. By many measures, Sharma had proven himself to be the best climber of his generation. It was something he had been told all his adult life, too—flattering hype that always made him uncomfortable, if not wary.
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But it wasn’t until he completed Jumbo Love that he realized one of the reasons why.
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Sharma looked within and realized he’d been climbing for 15 years and, thus far, he hadn’t really had to try very hard to be the best.