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Dark Horse Season 5 Round Two Highlights

Posted November 27, 2013 at 8:02 am · Comments { 0 } ·

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Paul Robinson Sends Jaws II (5.15a)

Posted November 26, 2013 at 1:46 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

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→ First 5.14d For Muriel Sarkany∞

Posted November 26, 2013 at 8:03 am · Comments { 0 } ·

39-year-old Muriel Sarkany has added her name to a short list of women to climb 5.14d with her repeat of Punt-X in France’s Gorges du Loup last week. Her comments to 8a:

It is a dream which becomes reality! To make one 9a, I dreamed about it and I did not think that it would become true one day. I looked a lot to find this route and as soon as I tried it, I felt that one day I could make it. I did not make all the moves and I couldn’t do three sequences without stopping. The holds are small and the moves are bouldery but it wasn’t morpho for me;-)

Prior to this ascent, Sarkany had won the overall World Cup title five times and repeated routes up to 5.14c. Impressive work!

You can see video of Sean McColl repeating this route here.

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Muriel Sarkany

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Gorges du Loup

Daila Ojeda & Olivia Hsu: Girls Trip Brazil

Posted November 26, 2013 at 7:49 am · Comments { 0 } ·

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→ Story Behind The Image: Three Degrees of Chris Sharma∞

Posted November 25, 2013 at 9:09 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Really enjoyed this story from Corey Rich about how he came to capture some images of Chris Sharma on his unrepeated route Three Degrees Of Separation in Ceuse, France:

The real story behind this image, however, is the climb that Chris ultimately created. This route, this seemingly nondescript line that Chris may have never bothered bolting had we not approached him with this project, ended up becoming one of Sharma’s great masterpieces.
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The route was not just an easy “5.
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13 or something,” as Chris had thought. In fact, it ended up being a really unique and really hard 5.14d that is distinguished by three massive, consecutive dynos (huge jumps between holds).
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Chris spent that week working on the line, sending it after a few days of effort. He called the route Three Degrees of Separation in reference to the three dynos.

See also Rich’s post about an image he captured of Sharma on the famous arch in Mallorca.

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