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Force Of Nature (V14) FA By Isaac Caldiero

Posted March 8, 2013 at 2:40 pm · Comments { 4 } ·
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Change

Posted March 7, 2013 at 1:44 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Adam Ondra, writing for Black Diamond about his route Change (5.15c):

I have had many significant changes in my life recently. The end of school turned my life and climbing into completely different perspective. Loads of time, total freedom to travel wherever I want is something I had been dreaming about for years. Finally I have the time to travel abroad along with a drill and create something inspiring enough to put a massive effort into. To find the first proof of this change, instead of heading south as always when we go climbing, we headed north instead. Change is life.

Don’t miss the accompanying video.

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Adam Ondra Making The First Ascent Of Change, The World’s First 9b+ (5.15c)

Posted March 7, 2013 at 1:10 pm · Comments { 18 } ·
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2013 ABS 14 National Championships – Youth Highlights

Posted March 7, 2013 at 9:41 am · Comments { 2 } ·
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Is There Anything This Kid Can’t Do?

Posted March 6, 2013 at 9:48 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Looking back in my archives this morning I noticed a critical lapse in my posts about a certain climber:  Japan’s Toru Nakajima.  Prior to 2013 began he had already had stunning successes on the gritstone at age 15, repeated a number of hard boulder problems in Colorado, sport climbed up to 5.14+ and repeated Dai Koyamada’s Tokoyo (V15).

2013 is beginning in much the same way for Nakajima as he makes his first visit to the forests of Fontainebleau.  Already he’s ticked off problems like The Big Island (V15), Gecko Assis (V14), The Traphouse (V14), The Traphouse Short (V13, flash) and more.

UKC has a good interview with him from late last year which gives more background on this impressive young climber.

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Carlo Traversi Repeating Direct North (V14)

Posted March 6, 2013 at 8:55 am · Comments { 1 } ·
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Big Island (V15) And More By Chris Schulte

Posted March 5, 2013 at 10:41 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Fresh off a side trip to Switzerland that saw him repeat problems like The Dagger (V14), Chris Schulte returned to Fontainebleau where he finished off Nalle Hukkataival’s The Realist (V14) and his long-term project Vincent Pochon’s The Big Island (V15).  For someone who enjoys climbing compression problems as much as Schulte does, this is surely a tick for the lifetime list.
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 Well done.

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