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A Climbing Chat With The Ladies

Jen Vennon, writing for her sponsor Prana’s blog:

Over the years I’ve kept a mental list of advice or suggestions I’d give to a girl new to the climbing world.

As someone who is not a girl but who has spent a lot of time trying to give beta to a girl who is over a foot shorter than me, I particularly enjoyed tip #3:

The problem with beta from big dudes is that their bodies are so much different from that of a woman. Even is the height is the same, our center of gravity is different and therefore the balance of any given move is going to be different.

Are you sure you don’t want to try my beta again?  It’ll totally work this time!
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Wild Wall

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FFA Of Bellavista (5.14b) By Sasha DiGiuilian

According to this post on her Instagram account, Sasaha DiGiulian has teamed up with Edu Marin to repeat Alex Huber’s multi-pitch route Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites:

After climbing through a big storm for the final pitches, and spending a bitter cold, wet night at the top of Tre Cime Oeste, I’m down and happy to report the First Female #Ascent of Bellavista, 8c, a 2-year dream of mine to climb!

Bellavista, which was first done in 2001, features several 5.12 pitches and one pitch of 5.14b and has seen relatively few repeats over the years.
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Athlete Spotlight – Jonathan Siegrist

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Flannery

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Why Are So Many Climbers Not Wearing Helmets?

Long piece from the August issue of Climbing about why so few climbers wear helmets:

When it comes to helmets and climbers, inconsistency is everywhere. Most ice climbers and mountaineers wear helmets, as do many traditional rock climbers. But far fewer rock climbers don lids for short climbs, especially sport routes.

See also this piece on The Stone Mind about the dangers of sport climbing without a helmet and this piece on Mountains & Water about how wearing a helmet while bouldering might make more sense than you’d think.

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Paige Claassen – Boven, South Africa – Rolihlahla (32, 5.13d)

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