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Abyss Teaser #1 (Chris Sharma)

Posted August 1, 2012 at 3:09 pm · Comments { 6 } ·
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Fred Nicole: Deeper

Posted July 31, 2012 at 8:53 pm · Comments { 4 } ·
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Jimmy Chin Video Profile

Posted July 26, 2012 at 12:00 pm · Comments { 2 } ·
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5.14b For Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou

Posted July 26, 2012 at 10:16 am · Comments { 0 } ·

In a repeat of what happened earlier this year in the Red River Gorge, 49-year-old Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou has followed closely on the heels of 11-year-old daughter Brooke’s success in repeating Welcome To Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain.  Like Brooke, this was Robyn’s first of the grade, and while I’m not willing to get as hyperbolic as the fine folks at 8a.nu, Robyn’s career is pretty remarkable: multiple time World Cup champion, 5.14a back in the 90’s, multiple 5.
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14as in the past few weeks and now this.

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American Alpine Club One Day Member Drive

Posted July 26, 2012 at 7:08 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The American Alpine Club is celebrating their acquisition of the Hueco Rock Ranch with a one day member drive TODAY.  Sign up or renew your membership today and receive a free shirt commemorating the Rock Ranch acquisition in addition to all the other great benefits the AAC has to offer.
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“I Can’t Be A Climber Forever”

Posted July 23, 2012 at 12:47 pm · Comments { 24 } ·

Sasha DiGiulian speaks to her plan of enrolling at Columbia this fall in a lengthy piece on her in The Washington Post:

“Most of my competitors, in the World Cup circuit especially, are just climbing,” DiGiulian adds. “But I decided to go back to school.
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Because I know that, in the long term, I can’t be a climber forever.”

The whole piece is well worth reading as you can get a good feel for the level of success DiGiulian has achieved in a rather short period of time.  While DiGiulian has always been a talented climber, remember that even two years ago she had done “only” one 5.141.  What’s she’s done in the interim both in competitions and on real rock has been well documented, and her success seems well-deserved.

  1. She’s added 20 more since then ↩
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Background On The Hueco Rock Ranch Sale

Posted July 19, 2012 at 3:15 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Access Fund Access Director Joe Sambataro, writing about the Access Fund’s role in the recent American Alpine Club acquisition of the iconic Hueco Rock Ranch:

Finishing his drink, Rob [Rice] explains how he came to Hueco shortly before the park rules changed, closing access to classic boulders and setting up a new process for permits and guide-only access. “It was important for me to honor Todd’s home and dream of a climbers’ hub,” explains Rob.
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He shares how he became the first commercial guide under the new public use plan, built a campground, and started a business of lodging and guiding, opening the Ranch up to the broader climbing community. “New generations of climbers have flocked to Hueco, and thousands of new stories have been made, year after year, here at the Ranch,” says Rob.
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“I want this legacy to continue in climber-friendly hands.
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”

Amen.

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