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→ New York Times Profiles Kevin Jorgeson∞

Posted January 14, 2015 at 9:10 am · Comments { 0 } ·

John Branch has been doing some really good pieces about the Dawn Wall for the New York Times, and this profile on Kevin Jorgeson is no exception.  Of note is Jorgeson’s comments on his battle with Pitch 15:

After Jorgeson failed on several attempts [on Pitch 15] in the middle of last week, he texted one word to Becker, his girlfriend: “Devastated.” His next text said he did not want to be known as the man who almost climbed the Dawn Wall.
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He rested his fingers, waiting for his skin to heal over two days, before embarking on another attempt on Friday afternoon.
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In the back of his mind, he knew that if he failed again, he would most likely end his quest in deference to Caldwell.
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Sure looks like Kevin Jorgeson is going to be known as the man who did climb the Dawn Wall.  Awesome stuff.

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Tommy Caldwell Completes Last 5.14 Pitch Of Dawn Wall

Posted January 7, 2015 at 9:01 am · Comments { 18 } ·

Tommy Caldwell completes the final 5.14 pitch of the Dawn Wall

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→ Dawn Wall Project Goes Mainstream∞

Posted January 5, 2015 at 9:15 am · Comments { 22 } ·

The efforts by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson to free climb a route up El Capitan’s Dawn Wall is really blowing up with much of the climbing world and now even the New York Times taking notice in this article by John Branch1.  The piece does a reasonably good job of conveying what is going on, and it includes this quote from Caldwell that I really liked:

“This is my Moby-Dick, for sure,” he said. “For me, it’s just a fascination with the epic journey. I’ve always been a fan of stories of big journeys. And it’s a question of curiosity. I love to play with my physical and mental limits and see how far I can push them, and I just love to dream big.
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And this project fulfills all those things.
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”

As for the current status of the big push to free the Dawn Wall, Tommy has succeeded through a variation of the “Dyno Pitch” which is roughly Pitch 15 1/2.  Kevin has been stymied by the last difficult traverse pitch, Pitch 15, but they are resting up and he hopes to give it another go here soon.
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 Stay tuned…

  1.  As always with these kinds of mainstream articles, read the comments at your own peril ↩
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The Nosewipe: A Camp VI Cleanse

Posted December 22, 2014 at 10:44 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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Sasha DiGiulian: Professional Rock Climber

Posted December 18, 2014 at 1:04 pm · Comments { 3 } ·
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→ Adam Ondra Climbs His 100th 5.14d Or Harder∞

Posted December 4, 2014 at 4:33 pm · Comments { 45 } ·

Finally.

Other than the sheer absurdity of the number, what I find most interesting about this is that Ondra did his first 5.14d way back in 2006 when he was just 13.  Since then a number of incredible young climbers have come along – Enzo Oddo, Ashima Shiraishi, Mirko Caballero  to name just a few – but Ondra’s record in all aspects of climbing is really unmatched.  Incredible.

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→ Give The Gift Of Access∞

Posted December 1, 2014 at 10:15 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Word on the street is that now is a big time of year for buying things, so if we’re all going to be buying things why not give the gift of Access this holiday season?

The Access Fund has their annual Holiday Pack for sale right now which comes with a slew of great schwag1, or you could  just go for the $35 annual membership which comes with, you know, the gift of access.

  1.  The T-shirt with the Fred Nicole painting on it is pretty cool ↩
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