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Chris Sharma: Intrinsic

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Courage & Heroism In Climbing

Alex Honnold in this lengthy profile by Esquire:

“No, I am [proud], I guess, but that’s what I do. I’m a climber. Everyone’s got their thing. I could never hit 30 free throws in a row, but a basketball player would think that was trivial.
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LeBron James doesn’t die if he misses, I tell him. Free soloing and free throws aren’t the same. One takes courage. It’s like his fans say on his comment threads: “It must be hard, climbing with balls that big”.

He grins. “The balls part is true. They are pretty freaking huge. But I wouldn’t say courage. Courage is doing something that you don’t want to do, like a soldier. I want to be halfway up a mountain. I think it’s awesome.”

I couldn’t agree more. To me words like courage or hero or brave have no real place when describing the actions of climbers.
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On the subject of free soloing, The Stone Mind has an insightful post today on this very topic:

…I admittedly feel a sadness at the thought of losing my friends and acquaintances. But the memento mori reminds us of our shared and universal fate. When we lose site of this, it becomes all to easy to imagine ourselves living forever, or that our success and wealth will somehow shield us from mortality. Death is the ultimate context, and we must live and act accordingly, whatever that means for each of us.
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The Secret is Out: Jailhouse Open Access

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The Access Fund’s Existential Crisis

Dan Nordstrom, Outdoor Research CEO and former Access Fund Board President, writing about the “existential crisis” the Access Fund faced in 2007:

Climbers had come to rely on the Access Fund to be there when a climbing area was threatened with any kind of closure. Whether the access restriction was related to raptors or real estate developers, climbers assumed the Access Fund would take on the bad guys when they came knocking.
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But what most climbers didn’t know was that there was no “fund,” despite our name.

The ultimate result of this crisis was the creation of the Access Fund’s Land Conservation Campaign which has been a resounding success raising over .
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6 million and already aiding in multiple crag purchase situations.

The Access Fund relies on our support for this type of initiative, so if you’re not already a member or you let your membership lapse like I did1, now is a great time to show your support.  And if you’re looking to give the climber in your life a great gift, the Access Fund once again has great holiday packages on sale that include an Access Fund membership in addition to some sweet schwag.

  1.  Embarrassing, I know
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Patrick Edlinger Tribute

Great compilation by UKC of thoughts from well-known climbers about Patrick Edlinger. Thanks to those of you who chimed in on yesterday’s post with some cool stories as well.

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Patrick Edlinger

On November 16th, famed French sport climbing pioneer Patrick Edlinger passed away at the age of 52…

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Will Stanhope Repeats The Prophet

Will Stanhope on his 4th ascent of The Prophet, a route on El Cap best known for its stunning “A1 Beauty” crux pitch:

I didn’t sleep much that night, instead just blinking at the stars from the portaledge, enjoying being up there.  I felt enormously grateful for all my friends that helped me along the way.  Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles, for the inspiration in the first place.  If it wasn’t for those two brits, the Prophet wouldn’t exist.
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  And Sonnie Trotter, for ropegunning the route last year.  He took the leads when I was having serious doubts, terrified of re-breaking my foot.
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  He never made me feel guilty about anything, instead he just gently took over the sharp-end, and showed me how it was done.  The night seemed to drag on forever, but I was ecstatic, savoring every minute of darkness, high on the wall.

I don’t know much about big wall free climbing, but it is a bit confusing how Stanhope and 3rd ascenionist Nik Berry can take a variation around one of the crux pitches and still have repeated the same climb that Leo Houlding established.  I’m inclined to take their word for it since they climb rad shit and I don’t, but it’s just something that crossed my mind as I read both their reports.

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