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Climbing Banned At Castle Rocks, ID

More bad access news, this time from Idaho:

On April 17, 2013, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in Idaho announced that all rock climbing activity will be banned on its 400-acre portion of the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area, citing the need to protect cultural resources.

…snip…

The BLM’s decision to ignore the same climbing management plan it helped create is totally unnecessary and unjustified. The Access Fund, Boise Climbers Alliance, Eastern Idaho Climbers Coalition, and the American Alpine Club are appealing BLM’s April 17th decision, but we need your help!

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5.14 Trad Ascent By James Pearson

A few weeks old, but this a nice report by James Pearson about his efforts to do the 2nd ascent of an old 5.14 sport route in La Balma, Switzerland called A Denti Tretti on natural gear:

when I first came to look at the route 1 week ago there were cobwebs in the cracks and it had obviously been a long time since anyone’s last visit.  Perhaps its the obvious difficulty in leaving the floor that puts people off, but past that initial section, the route looked just as good, if not better than its popular neighbour.
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  Even better still, it looked to be relatively well protected, and I decided to give it an on-sight attempt, directly on trad gear!
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Arizona Climber Killed By Bee Stings

Sad news the other week out of Arizona:

A climber’s body was found covered in bee stings and hanging off a southern Arizona cliff on Monday. His faithful dog was lying dead on top of the ridge.

Steven Johnson, 55, was last seen on Friday hiking in the Santa Rita Mountains with his dog right beside him. The Santa Cruz County Sheriff’s Office found Johnson hanging off Mount Hopkins in his climbing gear. The cause of death has yet to be determined, but officials suspect a bee attack.
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There’s a nice thread of rememberances on MountainProject for a guy who sounded like an incredible asset to the Arizona climbing community.  My condolences to his family.
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Another 5.14c Onsight By Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra notches 5.14c onsight #15 if you’re scoring at home.

I’m starting to think this kid has a bright future in this here climbing game.

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Climbing Banned On Basalt Columns In Armenia

Bad news for anyone psyched about making the trip to Armenia to climb on the incredibly unique looking basalt columns that were on the cover of Rock & Ice a few years back:

By this statement we want to inform all the climbers around the world that climbing on any Basalt Columns of Armenia is banned, so they won’t make expenses and travel a long way in vain.

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Crux Crush Interviews Colette McInerney

Crux Crush, one of the better new climbing sites to crop up of late, has a nice interview with Colette McInerney who recently climbed her first 5.14a in Oliana with a repeat of China Crisis:

In general, and definitely in the climbing world as well, there seems to be a lot of need for people to put things in boxes and control what they mean or what they are. Climbing is definitely a sport that doesn’t need those confines.
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You make climbing what you want, sexy, dirty, in a gym, on a mountain, and take from it what you want. All the other stuff really doesn’t matter.

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5.15a FA By Alex Megos In The Frankenjura

Alex Megos makes his first First Ascent count with his recent FA of Classified in Germany’s Frankenjura:

The new route, a ~20m fiesta of small shallow pockets followed by even smaller shallower ones, is a direct exit to Guido Köstermeyer’s Des Mos, 8b+, and was bolted by Christian Bindhammer some 10 years ago.

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