Archive | News RSS feed for this section

→ Leslie Timms Repeats Sacred Geometry (5.13c)∞

Posted December 3, 2013 at 9:18 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Somewhat of a quiet season down in the Red River Gorge this fall, especially compared to last year, but one notable thing that caught my eye was this excellent post by Leslie Timms about her efforts to repeat Sacred Geometry, a 5.13c trad route that was established in recent years by local Andrew Gearing:

It was love at first try. The movement is amazing, super technical yet powerful, and with that beautiful combination of bouldering and crack skills. It is located up on a ledge at Long Wall and you have to climb a nice 5.8 corner to get to it. This position was a wonderful change from the busy sport crags of the Red. It made me so much more aware of how important the scenery and setting are as the climb to me. It has the smallest, trickiest gear that I have ever climbed that hard above, but it is safely protected despite 000 BD and blue aliens being an average size. This mental aspect inspired me even more.

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 1 }

Leslie Timms

· Areas { 1 }

Red River Gorge

→ How Climbing Fits∞

Posted December 3, 2013 at 8:12 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Ty Landman, in an interview with UKC about a recent FA he did in the UK:

I think an important part of climbing is figuring out what the sport means to you, and where and how it fits into your life. This in turn dictates where your expectations should lie. Climbing was definitely at one time the most important thing to me, but as it shifted to just a hobby, my approach changed. I don’t think this change has had an impact on what I am capable of doing. If anything, it may have made me better.
buy azithromycin online http://www.biop.cz/fotky/nahledy/photo/azithromycin.html no prescription

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 1 }

Ty Landman

· Areas { 0 }

No Areas associated with this post

→ Toshi Takeuchi Repeats Meadowlark Lemon (V15)∞

Posted December 2, 2013 at 8:07 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Toshi Takeuchi has done the 4th ascent of Paul Robinson’s Meadowlark Lemon (V15) in Red Rock, NV, his first of the grade and just his fourth V14 or harder.

With the likes of Jimmy Webb, Daniel Woods and Nalle Hukkataival set to visit Red Rocks in the coming weeks I would expect to see this problem get a couple more repeats before the end of the year.
buy ventolin online https://mb2dental.com/wp-content/themes/Divi/core/components/data/new/ventolin.html no prescription

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 1 }

Toshi Takeuchi

· Areas { 1 }

Red Rock

→ Access Fund Holiday Packs∞

Posted November 27, 2013 at 8:09 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The 2013 edition of the always popular Access Fund Holiday Packs are now on sale. Give someone (or yourself) the gift of access this holiday season and they can get some nice bonus schwag thrown in.

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 0 }

No Climbers associated with this post

· Areas { 0 }

No Areas associated with this post

→ First 5.14d For Muriel Sarkany∞

Posted November 26, 2013 at 8:03 am · Comments { 0 } ·

39-year-old Muriel Sarkany has added her name to a short list of women to climb 5.14d with her repeat of Punt-X in France’s Gorges du Loup last week. Her comments to 8a:

It is a dream which becomes reality! To make one 9a, I dreamed about it and I did not think that it would become true one day. I looked a lot to find this route and as soon as I tried it, I felt that one day I could make it. I did not make all the moves and I couldn’t do three sequences without stopping. The holds are small and the moves are bouldery but it wasn’t morpho for me;-)

Prior to this ascent, Sarkany had won the overall World Cup title five times and repeated routes up to 5.14c. Impressive work!

You can see video of Sean McColl repeating this route here.

∞ · Comments { 0 } · Climbers { 1 }