PlanetMountain caught up with Adam Ondra yesterday after his repeat of Gioia to ask him the important questions like how’d it feel, what’s next and what he thinks about the grade:
Well every single move is at the very limit and so I do think it’s V16. I’d compare it in difficulty to Terranova. If you were to give this V15, then the bouldering grades wouldn’t make much sense anymore. You’d have to downgrade all the V14 and most of the V15’s as well.
I’m a big fan of the interviews done on Boulder’s ClimbTalk Radio and thanks to the hard work of Dave McAllister we can all peruse transcripts of the shows. The latest interview to be transcribed with B3Bouldering.com‘s Jamie Emerson touches on a wide variety of topics including Jamie’s work on a guidebook for RMNP and Mt. Evans, the evolution of his blog and his status as the unofficial Sheriff of the climbing community:
You know, if I question, “Did someone start there or do this,” they take it really personally. Even though I think it’s important that we discuss these issues and I know a lot of times it’s my friends.
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In fact, I called Dave Graham out for starting in an inappropriate place and he was not happy with me, at all. We had to have a little talk about it. He was like, “It’s really ridiculous that you’re calling me out.” I’m like, “Hey, I’m an equal opportunity Sheriff. I’ll write tickets for everyone.” No one’s above being questioned, including myself.
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Ironically, I feel like I get questioned more than anyone.
With Austrian climbers winning the recent sport climbing World Cup in Boulder as well as the overall Boulder World Cup title, you might be wondering what their secret to success is. In an appearance on Boulder’s ClimbTalk Radio Show World Cup Champ Kilian Fischhuber let us in on this key tip:
I always climb my problems on my last try. And I keep doing that. It’s really cool.
Ok, maybe there’s more to being a World Cup champion than that, but check out the rest of the transcript of the interview for a fun conversation with Fischhuber, Anna Stöhr, Chuck Fryberger, Cody Roth and Jonathan Siegrist.
Alex Honnold has been getting a lot of attention lately, likely related to that TV show you might have seen him on. This recent interview he did with Trails Edge has several interesting nuggets including this one about what his life is like most days:
All I do is live my normal life and do my normal thing. I go out everyday and go climbing. People see a very cherry-picked thing, they don’t see the tons of days I go out there and totally suck.
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I hardly ever do anything badass. It’s just that when I do, it all happens on film. That’s the thing about climbing: at any level you’re always pushing yourself.
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So everybody, no matter how good they are, always feels like they suck because they’re always on some harder and harder project.
The Nat Geo Adventure blog checks in with Chris Sharma
An interview with New Zealand’s Mayan Smith-Gobat after she freed the Salathé Wall on El Capitan
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Animull89: So gnarly that he did that twice...I remember the ...
