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Ian Powell Shaping Life

Posted April 25, 2013 at 2:18 pm · Comments { 1 } ·
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Five Ten Takes Over SCS Nationals

Posted April 25, 2013 at 6:37 am · Comments { 2 } ·
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→ 5.14c FA By Dan Mirsky At The Cathedral∞

Posted April 16, 2013 at 5:16 pm · Comments { 7 } ·

DPM interviews Dan Mirsky after he did the FA of Solid Gold, a proposed 5.14c in Utah’s Cathedral:

So basically, Solid Gold is the most straight up way to climb the main awesome cave feature which is how it avoids all the rests and possibly makes it the hardest iteration of Golden. The style of the route is total power endurance; basically bouldery sequences with marginal rests the whole way starting with the one leaving Space Shuttle and culminating with the crux of Golden, an amazing sequence of spraggle pockets and tufa pinches on some of the best limestone I have touched. It is in my opinion the coolest crux sequence I have ever done.
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Alex Honnold’s FA Of A Gift From Wyoming (5.13) On Leaning Tower Part 1

Posted April 5, 2013 at 2:24 pm · Comments { 3 } ·
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Alex Megos’ Three Try Limit

Posted March 26, 2013 at 2:31 pm · Comments { 3 } ·

Alex Megos, in an email to sponsor DMM, with some details on his onsight of Estado crítico (5.14d):

In that moment I didn’t think about having done something really outstanding. But after the send somebody asked me if this was the first 9a onsight and I said I don’t know and started to think about it.

The article goes on to mention that Megos generally only tries something three times before moving on. Clearly this works pretty well for him, what with him climbing over 100 routes and boulders 8a or harder during his recent U.
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S. trip and now this 5.14d onsight.

I was tempted to make some sort of joke about how I also only have a three try limit, but the reality is that if I don’t do something within the first two tries I’ll probably never do it…
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but that doesn’t keep me from trying.

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Chris Sharma Interviewed About La Dura Dura

Posted March 26, 2013 at 11:28 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Chris Sharma, in an interview with PlanetMountain, talking about his repeat of La Dura Dura (5.15c):

I must have spent a whole year trying the lower section, those 15 moves. Doing this was a really long process, mentally, because there’s a really hard iron cross move where I kept falling and when I finally did this, I then fell higher up.

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Cristian Brenna Interview

Posted March 11, 2013 at 12:49 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Lots of great perspective from Italian legend Cristian Brenna in this excellent interview by Andrew Bisharat including this nugget dispelling what I think is a common misconception about many sponsored climbers:

You see a lot of climbers with badges sewn onto their pants, which gives the impression that they are professionals, but they get like five carabiners and some shoes. Yeah, they are sponsored but they don’t get money.

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