In addition to the lead competition won by Adam Ondra and Jain Kim, the Paraclimbing World Championships also happened last weekend in Gijon, Spain. Climbing.com has the full breakdown that includes several U.S. competitors finishing on the podium.
→ U.S. Team Shines At Paraclimbing World Championship∞
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→ Valley Uprising Nostalgic∞
Smart piece by Andrew Bisharat about the new Reel Rock Tour film Valley Uprising that premieres tomorrow night in Boulder, CO:
Why are we watching this film in 2014—really? And what does our pervasive nostalgia for 1970s-era Yosemite climbing culture suggest about our sport today?
It just so happens that I’ll be seeing the movie tomorrow night, and I’ll definitely be keeping a lot these points in the back of my mind as I take in the show.
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→ Honnold Free Solos Squamish’s University Wall∞
Alex Honnold has been keeping busy up in Squamish, soloing 290 pitches for his 29th birthday on August 17th and then soloing University Wall on The Chief:
This August 25, Honnold hiked from the parking lot along Highway 99, passing a small gaggle of climbers below the popular 5.10 finger crack Seasoned in the Sun and James Lucas on his way back down from his own clambering on University Wall, to arrive at the left side of the Chief’s massive Grand Wall and the base of his objective.
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He started climbing, thankful to be wearing a t-shirt to protect his skin from the chimneys and offwidths on the lower pitches.
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Reaching past Bellygood Ledge, he continued up The Roman Chimneys for its extra four pitches of 5.10 and 5.11 to top out.
Interesting interview to go along with that article as well.
→ A Group Lifts Paraclimbers To Higher Goals∞
Nice piece in the New York Time the other week on The Adaptive Climbing Group, a group of paraclimbers in New York:
The Adaptive Climbing Group is the brainchild of Kareemah Batts, of Brooklyn, who once swore that she would never rock-climb. But she came around to the sport after a battle with cancer that cost her a part of a leg.
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She then found that she wanted to climb with other amputees and formed the group.
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→ R.I.P. Flyin’ Brian McCray∞
Nice post by Mikey at DPM about the sad passing of legendary route developer Flyin’ Brian McCray from an apparent suicide:
Brian’s impact on New River Gorge climbing cannot be overstated. He moved to Fayetteville, West Virginia in the mid-90s, quickly progressed to climbing the hardest routes, and then set about equipping the routes of the Cirque with his then girlfriend Roxanna Brock. In just more than a year, Brian established over 20 climbs on the intimidating blank canvas including Proper Soul, the region’s first 5.14a. And then he was gone—off to the West to claim speed records on El Cap big walls, first ascents on the big walls of Zion, alpine walls in Alaska, hundreds of sport routes, and many more adventures.>
My most vivid memory of McCray’s routes was down in the Red River Gorge a few years back when we visited a recently rediscovered crag that he had apparently developed in the 90’s before moving on to other things. Most of the routes had been rebolted, but above the anchors of one of the routes remained two rusty anchors from a different day and time. In between burns on what was an incredible route I distinctly remember staring at those bolts trying to put myself in the shoes of McCray as he was bolting this crag some 15-20 years prior.
What was it like to come across this wall when it was still a blank slate? What were those days spent bolting like? The rusted anchors I saw were maybe 10 feet above the present day anchors, could he have actually climbed the blank section between the two? Could he have ever imagined that people would think that some of the routes he bolted there were runout? The answers are, of course, not that important, but I’m guessing that McCray’s work has been felt in similar ways by many climbers over the years.
My condolences to Brian’s family and friends.
→ Alex Honnold And The Relativity Of Risk∞
Alex Honnold, writing for Alpinist about his free solo of El Sendero Luminoso:
That meant five more people who’d flown down and who were now waiting for me to solo a big wall. And despite everyone’s assurances that I should only do what I felt comfortable with, and that they could film any other, easier route if I changed my mind, it was hard not to feel a little pressure.
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I’ll be curious to hear him talk about this and more tonight at the Boulder Theatre as part of The North Face’s Speaker Series.
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You can tune in live at 7 PM MDT for a live feed from the event.
→ Outdoor Retailer Summer 2014 Climbing Report∞
Nice recap by Splitter Choss of the recently completed 2014 Outdoor Retailer Summer Trade Show. I was actually able to make a brief stop at the show in between Psicocomp duties, but I did not get a chance to visit many of the climbing-related booths in any detail.
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