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→ Alex Honnold To Climb Building On Live TV∞

Posted July 24, 2013 at 2:04 pm · Comments { 12 } ·

So, this is happening:

The two-hour fall event, Live Climb With Alex Honnold, will feature the 27-year-old as he attempts to be the first to scale one of the tallest buildings in the world. (For safety reasons, the building will remain under wraps until closer to the climb.)

I had to check the calendar to make sure it wasn’t April Fools’ Day as this seems a bit odd on the surface.  Then again, Honnold has always struck me as being rather pragmatic and I’m guessing this sort of stunt pays a lot better than anything with actual rock climbing involved.
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Update:  More here in this interview with Honnold

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→ The World According To Kai∞

Posted July 24, 2013 at 9:50 am · Comments { 3 } ·

Nice piece from the latest issue of DPM about 13-year-old Kai Lightner:

How then, did a young black child from the flatlands of North Carolina come to find his passion in a sport largely dominated by white people that his mother would never introduce him to? Kai isn’t the only black rock climber, but he does currently represent a vast minority.
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One look around the landscape of the sport and it’s impossible to overlook the homogenously white outdoor crowd. Climbing, and outdoor recreation in general, is not part of black culture but the reasons for that are murky.
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By all accounts from people I know who have met him, Lightner is a great kid.
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Honnold, Wright Enchain California 14ers by Bike, Foot, And Free Solo

Posted July 23, 2013 at 9:41 am · Comments { 5 } ·

I’m not sure what’s crazier, free soloing something like Half Dome or climbing 15 14ers in California in three weeks without using a car:

Over three weeks and one day, Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright pulled off a unique adventure in their home state of California: enchaining all of the state’s 14,000-foot-plus peaks (and then some), using only two bikes and their own two feet for transportation. Along the way during this remarkable journey from Mt.
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Shasta to Mt. Langley, the two biked more than 700 miles, hiked at least 100 miles, and climbed over 100,000 vertical feet, often via difficult technical rock climbs.

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→ If You’re Not An Access Fund Member, What Are You?∞

Posted July 22, 2013 at 9:56 am · Comments { 15 } ·

Louder Than 11’s Jordan Shipman:

The sad truth, however, is that less than 1% of the climbing community are members of the Access Fund. There are millions of climbers out there in the US but the Access Fund only has around 10,000 members or so.
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Given the number of people who seemed to be very concerned about growth in climbing, overcrowding at crags and environmental impact when it was announced that climbing wouldn’t be in the 2020 Olympics—I find this last fact pretty shocking.
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I mean, what the f*ck?

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→ Sunshine, Ice Cream And BBQ’s With Friends∞

Posted July 18, 2013 at 10:46 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Shauna Coxsey recaps her visit to Colorado which was highlighted by her ascent of Nuthin’ But Sunshine (V13):

I had never really understood how people can become so transfixed by one piece of rock and spend session after session trying the same moves. But now I get it and there is no explanation for it.
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→ DiGiulian’s Rolihlahla Repeated By Paige Claassen Among Others∞

Posted July 18, 2013 at 10:06 am · Comments { 3 } ·

It’s been a busy week for Sasha DiGiuliuan’s new route Rolihlahla at South Africa’s Waterval Boven, as it has seen repeats from Arjan de Kock, Andrew Pedley and now Paige Claassen.  Claassen suggests a possible grade of 5.13d1 while offering this comment about the route:

Regardless of the grade, Rolihlahla is an absolutely gorgeous line and I’m so glad that Sasha caught the fire to establish the route so the rest of us could follow suit! I know that many locals, especially women, have been inspired by new ascents in the region.
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I don’t get to climb with Sasha often, but it’s always incredibly motivating to pull down with strong ladies who put their heart into every attempt and contribute to the group’s motivation at the cliff.
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Thanks to Andrew Pedley for bolting another stellar line, and to Sasha for chalking up all those small grips!

  1.  DiGiulian had suggested 5.14b ↩
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→ Athlete Listing For Upcoming Psicobloc Masters Series Event∞

Posted July 18, 2013 at 9:46 am · Comments { 13 } ·

The organizers of the Psicobloc Masters Series event coming up in two weeks continue to rub salt in the wound that is my inability to attend the event or even watch the live broadcast1, this time by releasing the list of athletes slated to compete in the event.  I mean, when was the last time that Chris Sharma, Dave Graham and Tommy Caldwell all competed at the same event?
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  1. #weddingseason ↩
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