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New V14 In Chaos Canyon By Daniel Woods

Daniel Woods’ “boner arms” seem to have recovered quite well after his 2nd place finish at the Psicobloc Masters Series as he established a new V14 in the far reaches of Chaos Canyon in RMNP last week:

Yesterday Daniel Woods did the FA of The Wheel of Chaos V14 in Upper Upper Chaos. This is a very long and upward rising boulder problem that comes out of a huge cave way up high.
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Nalle Hukktaiaval made the first repeat of the problem yesterday.

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Kids Rule In Magic Wood

27 Crags has a nice recap of what the kids have been up to in Magic Wood, Switzerland over the past few weeks with the highlight being a repeat of One Summer In Paradise (V13) by 12-year-olds Ashima Shiraishi and Mirko Caballero.

Remember when climbing just your age used to be cool?
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A Climbing Chat With The Ladies

Jen Vennon, writing for her sponsor Prana’s blog:

Over the years I’ve kept a mental list of advice or suggestions I’d give to a girl new to the climbing world.

As someone who is not a girl but who has spent a lot of time trying to give beta to a girl who is over a foot shorter than me, I particularly enjoyed tip #3:

The problem with beta from big dudes is that their bodies are so much different from that of a woman. Even is the height is the same, our center of gravity is different and therefore the balance of any given move is going to be different.

Are you sure you don’t want to try my beta again?  It’ll totally work this time!
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FFA Of Bellavista (5.14b) By Sasha DiGiuilian

According to this post on her Instagram account, Sasaha DiGiulian has teamed up with Edu Marin to repeat Alex Huber’s multi-pitch route Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites:

After climbing through a big storm for the final pitches, and spending a bitter cold, wet night at the top of Tre Cime Oeste, I’m down and happy to report the First Female #Ascent of Bellavista, 8c, a 2-year dream of mine to climb!

Bellavista, which was first done in 2001, features several 5.12 pitches and one pitch of 5.14b and has seen relatively few repeats over the years.
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Why Are So Many Climbers Not Wearing Helmets?

Long piece from the August issue of Climbing about why so few climbers wear helmets:

When it comes to helmets and climbers, inconsistency is everywhere. Most ice climbers and mountaineers wear helmets, as do many traditional rock climbers. But far fewer rock climbers don lids for short climbs, especially sport routes.

See also this piece on The Stone Mind about the dangers of sport climbing without a helmet and this piece on Mountains & Water about how wearing a helmet while bouldering might make more sense than you’d think.

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The Almighty

Jonathan Siegrist writes about his experience repeating a mixed route called The Almight(5.14a) in Teton Canyon, WY that was first done by local Ty Mack in 2011:

This is one of my favorite ascents to date – I feel that it is my hardest trad lead and it was a really cool process to get there. Ty suggested .14a for The Almighty and I think personally I would suggest .14b for the short person method through the lower and upper cruxes. Because of size we really did climb the route entirely different.
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Ty’s effort here isreally sick, and I want to make a point to congratulate him again for his efforts opening The Almighty — there really is nothing else like it!

It’s always cool to read these stories of off the radar routes established by off the radar bone crushers.

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Outdoor Retailer Summer Market 2013 Climbing Report

Nice recap over at Splitter Choss of  the latest and greatest in climbing gear that was unveiled at last week’s Outdoor Retailer Trade Show.
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 The Millet Opposite rope looks interesting, and you know I’m a sucker for Five Ten bringing back old shoes. Now if only they would bring back the  V10s…

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