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→ Why Do Women Cry At The Crag?∞

Posted September 12, 2013 at 2:40 pm · Comments { 24 } ·

Paige Claassen:

Over the last few months, I’ve found myself sitting at the base of a project, crying, more and more often. Crying over a rock climb is the worst.
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The actual crying, reflecting on the crying after I cry, and the dread of knowing that if I fall I will probably cry – these are all humiliating to admit.
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Crying about a rock climb is even more disgraceful when all day, as I fall and cry and fall and cry, I watch people in the land below who are simply trying to survive. How can I put so much effort and value into something that in reality means so little?
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The way each of us expresses our emotions may be different, but there’s no doubt that climbing has the ability to generate strong emotional responses in each of us.  As for me, I don’t recall ever crying while climbing, but in my younger days I know I reacted to failure in ways that make me want to cry just thinking about it today.

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→ Man And Superman∞

Posted September 12, 2013 at 10:01 am · Comments { 15 } ·

Malcolm Gladwell, writing for The New Yorker:

What we are watching when we watch élite sports, then, is a contest among wildly disparate groups of people, who approach the starting line with an uneven set of genetic endowments and natural advantages. There will be Donald Thomases who barely have to train, and there will be Eero Mäntyrantas, who carry around in their blood, by dumb genetic luck, the ability to finish forty seconds ahead of their competitors. Élite sports supply, as Epstein puts it, a “splendid stage for the fantastic menagerie that is human biological diversity.” The menagerie is what makes sports fascinating.
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But it has also burdened high-level competition with a contradiction.
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We want sports to be fair and we take elaborate measures to make sure that no one competitor has an advantage over any other. But how can a fantastic menagerie ever be a contest among equals?
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Fortunately, climbing isn’t popular or lucrative enough for performance enhancing drugs to be a big part of the conversation, but it is a sport where people’s physical differences—and the inherent advantages and disadvantages therein—are always on display to give you an excuse something to think about while your tall friend hikes your project.

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→ Maybe Alex Megos Is Human After All?∞

Posted September 12, 2013 at 8:20 am · Comments { 0 } ·

In many ways German phenom Alex Megos seems like a robot sent from another planet to climb all our hardest routes and boulder problems without making much of a fuss about it, but this interview with Vertical Life gives at least one hint that he might be human:

You have already achieved an incredible amount but what is the facet of your climbing that you think you most need to work on?

Crack climbing. I was in Indian Creek last year on my road trip with my friend Peter Würth and I barely could climb a 5.
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12- crack. In every other area that’s my warming up grade.

Based on the one time I saw him climbing even 5.12- is too easy for his sport climbing warm up.

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→ A Summer In Africa∞

Posted September 11, 2013 at 8:59 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice recap with pictures by the UK’s Mina Leslie-Wujastyk of her six week trip to Rocklands which saw her climb 8 V11s and 1 V12, but not that V12:

One sad thing was the closure of the Tea Garden area, which left me (and many others) unable to try Black Shadow (8A+). This was a nemesis from my last trip and so I was sad not to have the chance to revisit it. I can only hope that relations will improve with that particular landowner and the area will be re-opened in future years.

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→ More 5.14s In Idaho From Jonathan Siegrist∞

Posted September 11, 2013 at 8:31 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Jonathan Siegriest has wrapped up a successful trip to the Fins in southeast Idaho, adding a few new 5.14s to what is becoming a pretty fully developed wall for hard face climbing:

It’s not the biggest, or most extensive crag in the country but if face climbing is your stoke then honestly this area can not be missed. The discovery wall alone hosts nearly a dozen 5.13s and 5 5.14s, with a slew of 12’s to fill in the gaps.
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I doubt that it will ever develop into a uber popular crag – it’s in the middle of nowhere, it’s generally hard, the road to the camping is super burly and the hard routes are quite sporting.
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But for those of us that love this place – here’s to another rad season and hopefully I’ll see you out there again!

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→ Wrestling Voted Back Into Olympics∞

Posted September 10, 2013 at 8:38 am · Comments { 4 } ·

In news that is about as surprising as the fact that Apple will announce a new iPhone later today, wrestling has been voted back into the Olympics:

The International Olympic Committee, recognizing the gravity of its error, reinstated wrestling to the 2020 Summer Games program.

At the same time, the IOC rejected bids to put squash and a combined effort from baseball/softball onto the show at the Tokyo 2020 Games, underscoring the fix it has put itself in as it seeks to keep the program relevant.

“This was a mistake,” the influential Kuwaiti Sheikh Ahmad al-Fahad al-Sabah said before the vote to reinstate wrestling, referring to the move last February by the IOC’s policy-making executive board to take it off the 2020 program.

The IOC fixed the mistake in a one-and-done vote.
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The writing was on the wall for people hoping to get climbing in the Olympics as soon as wrestling was cut back in February.  With only one slot available and wrestling only really in a penalty box of sorts, climbing or any of the other short-listed sports seemingly never had a chance.  Whether climbing would have had a chance had the wrestling situation not materialized is less clear, although it still seemed like a long shot.

This is all more good news for those who are adamantly opposed to climbing becoming an Olympic sport, and I would think it would give pause to supporters of the effort when the next IOC dog and pony show gets started for 2024.
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→ Ondra, Markovic Win Arco Rock Legends 2013∞

Posted September 9, 2013 at 8:39 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Congrats to Adam Ondra and Mina Markovic who were awarded the Salewa Rock Award and the La Sportiva Competition Award at this past weekend’s Arco Rock Legends ceremony in Arco, Italy:

He is the climber that everyone wants to be. One of the strongest, for many perhaps even the strongest ever in the history of sport climbing. She is the competition athlete who has improved most in recent years. As strong in Lead as in Bouldering, she represents the evolution of the sport rock climbing.

There was some actual climbing in Arco this past weekend as well which saw Alex Pucco and Rustam Gelmanov win the bouldering competitiong and Sean McColl and Dinara Fakhritdinova win the Duel.  More details on that here.

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