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→ Adam Ondra’s Sabbatical∞

Posted October 20, 2013 at 11:06 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Nice interview with Adam Ondra reflecting on his 15 months as a full-time climber:

No, I wasn’t tempted to [postpone going to college to continue climbing full time]. Because I know that if I didn’t have to be home to study, it would be hard to persuade myself into hard training.
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But as I have to go to school, it’s easier to stay in Brno and really train in a structured way.
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I will be competing in the last two World Cup events this year mainly to regain the experience and to see how it feels like, but I will not be training especially for them.
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→ Seek And You Shall Find∞

Posted October 17, 2013 at 12:00 pm · Comments { 1 } ·

Katie Lambert, writing on her blog about a summer spent climbing some of the hardest routes in one of my favorite places on Earth, Tuolumne:

The exposure was surreal and it was starting to give me the creeps. I thought to myself that all I had to do was mantle up, make a couple of moves and get to the next bolt.  Except the holds were dirty and covered in lichen and every time I pulled up with a heel hook into the mantle my hands would slip a little and every time I would climb back down and way back left to the last bolt 15 feet behind me. I did this about 5 times, each time looking back at my 9.
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1 rope draped across sharp knobs, wondering if the sideways fall into the unknown below the roof would cut my rope. Eventually I returned to the belay, leaving behind two lowerout biners and we rapped to the ground. John Bachar Lives played over and over in my head as we walked down the trail and I was more intrigued than ever.
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This piece really took me back to my trip to Tuolumne and made me realize that no matter your skill level anyone can have that quintessential Tuolumne experience whether it’s on a 5.5 or on a 5.13.  It seemed fitting to finally post this on the day the national parks re-open.
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→ Climbing Beyond Boehner’s Reach∞

Posted October 16, 2013 at 9:02 am · Comments { 18 } ·

Freddie Wilkinson takes to the Op-Ed section of The New York Times to talk about how the government shutdown has affected the climbing scene in Yosemite:

The most anticipated event of this climbing season was to be an effort by Tommy Caldwell of Colorado to lead a team of climbers to become the first to free climb the Dawn Wall — that is, climbing by hand and foot without using gear to make upward progress — a feat Mr. Caldwell has been pursuing for the last seven years.
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Chris Sharma, a reigning icon of the action-sports world, was to join the climber Kevin Jorgeson in the effort, which they ended up postponing.
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“It’s like Michael Phelps showing up at the Olympics, only to find the pool has been drained,” said Andrew Bisharat, an editor for Rock and Ice Magazine.
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→ V12 FA By Dorothea Karalus In The Grampians∞

Posted October 16, 2013 at 8:02 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Dorothea Karalus, writing on her blog about her FA of the stellar looking problem In The Clouds (V12) in the Grampians:

On cloudy days attempts were usually thwarted by rain showers, so we resorted to night sessions. I made slow but steady progress and one dry evening I managed to stick the crux third move from the bottom only to fall going to the gaston! Nervously I rested for a bit, managed to stay calm and did the probably first ascent the same night!
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As noted by B3Bouldering, this is likely one of the hardest FA’s ever done by a woman.

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→ Ueli Steck And Annapurna∞

Posted October 14, 2013 at 8:17 am · Comments { 3 } ·

PlanetMountain once again with the news making interview, this time with Ueli Steck after his incredible solo of the South Face of Annapurna:

Everything calmed down. Just like I’d already noticed at ABC the previous evening. And it was like that again. It quickly became dark and quiet. This was my chance. I was sure the winds would pick up again in the morning. So the only way to reach the summit was at night.

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→ Yosemite Post-Shutdown∞

Posted October 10, 2013 at 12:54 pm · Comments { 0 } ·

Cheyne Lempe, in an interview with Climbing.com, on what it is like in Yosemite now that most everyone has been forced to leave due to the government being shutdown:

This past week has honestly been one of the most incredible experiences I have ever had in the park. It’s almost eerie how quiet it is.
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I live in a tent cabin in the back of Camp 4, so the constant noise of car alarms, traffic, screaming children, and drunken hollering from all the people is nonexistent.
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Last week Camp 4 was completely full, now there are only a few abandoned tents. I’ve been noticing more of the subtle beauty of this place.

Sounds amazing.

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→ Making The Most Of A Bad Situation∞

Posted October 9, 2013 at 8:48 am · Comments { 12 } ·

Remember that one time that Chris Sharma was going to join Tommy Caldwell and crew for a season on Yosemite’s Dawn Wall but couldn’t because the government shut down and Yosemite was closed?  That was pretty cool uncool.  According to Climbing.com, instead of trying to stick it to the man and try to climb in the park illegally, Sharma has moved on to something else for now:

Kept out of Yosemite by the government shutdown, and thus unable to work on the Dawn Wall as planned, Chris Sharma traveled south for another mega-project: a futuristic route on Clark Mountain.

Go on…

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