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→ If You’re Not An Access Fund Member, What Are You?∞

Posted July 22, 2013 at 9:56 am · Comments { 15 } ·

Louder Than 11’s Jordan Shipman:

The sad truth, however, is that less than 1% of the climbing community are members of the Access Fund. There are millions of climbers out there in the US but the Access Fund only has around 10,000 members or so.
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Given the number of people who seemed to be very concerned about growth in climbing, overcrowding at crags and environmental impact when it was announced that climbing wouldn’t be in the 2020 Olympics—I find this last fact pretty shocking.
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I mean, what the f*ck?

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Video Friday – 7/19/2013

Video Friday – 7/19/2013

Posted July 19, 2013 at 9:14 am · Comments { 0 } ·

The highest rated videos of the past week

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→ Sunshine, Ice Cream And BBQ’s With Friends∞

Posted July 18, 2013 at 10:46 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Shauna Coxsey recaps her visit to Colorado which was highlighted by her ascent of Nuthin’ But Sunshine (V13):

I had never really understood how people can become so transfixed by one piece of rock and spend session after session trying the same moves. But now I get it and there is no explanation for it.
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→ DiGiulian’s Rolihlahla Repeated By Paige Claassen Among Others∞

Posted July 18, 2013 at 10:06 am · Comments { 3 } ·

It’s been a busy week for Sasha DiGiuliuan’s new route Rolihlahla at South Africa’s Waterval Boven, as it has seen repeats from Arjan de Kock, Andrew Pedley and now Paige Claassen.  Claassen suggests a possible grade of 5.13d1 while offering this comment about the route:

Regardless of the grade, Rolihlahla is an absolutely gorgeous line and I’m so glad that Sasha caught the fire to establish the route so the rest of us could follow suit! I know that many locals, especially women, have been inspired by new ascents in the region.
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I don’t get to climb with Sasha often, but it’s always incredibly motivating to pull down with strong ladies who put their heart into every attempt and contribute to the group’s motivation at the cliff.
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Thanks to Andrew Pedley for bolting another stellar line, and to Sasha for chalking up all those small grips!

  1.  DiGiulian had suggested 5.14b ↩
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→ Athlete Listing For Upcoming Psicobloc Masters Series Event∞

Posted July 18, 2013 at 9:46 am · Comments { 13 } ·

The organizers of the Psicobloc Masters Series event coming up in two weeks continue to rub salt in the wound that is my inability to attend the event or even watch the live broadcast1, this time by releasing the list of athletes slated to compete in the event.  I mean, when was the last time that Chris Sharma, Dave Graham and Tommy Caldwell all competed at the same event?
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  1. #weddingseason ↩
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→ Jonathan Siegrist Repeats Moonshine (5.14d)∞

Posted July 16, 2013 at 9:53 am · Comments { 1 } ·

Jonathan Siegrist, writing on his blog about his 4th ascent of BJ Tilden’s finger tendon nightmare Moonshine (5.14d) at the Wild Iris:

In the end it was this rad community that got me through it. My homie Colby came through with the necessary moonshine, replenishing the resident jar that lives beneath the route, BJ was there to bless me with his belay, and a crowd of good friends – old and new – were at the crag to cheer me on.
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I’m glad that this tiny little sport route toyed with my emotions a little – I got a condensed version of what BJ experienced over the years – and it made topping out the Erratic that much sweeter.
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→ The Disposable Man∞

Posted July 15, 2013 at 8:18 am · Comments { 2 } ·

Interesting piece on Outside Online about the plight of Sherpas working in the Everest region:

A Sherpa working above Base Camp on Everest is nearly ten times more likely to die than a commercial fisherman—the profession the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention rates as the most dangerous nonmilitary job in the U.S.—and more than three and a half times as likely to perish than an infantryman during the first four years of the Iraq war.  But as a workplace safety statistic, 1.
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2 percent mortality is outrageous. There’s no other service industry in the world that so frequently kills and maims its workers for the benefit of paying clients.
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