Interesting question raised by Chris Weidner in his column for Boulder’s Daily Camera with regard to the possibility of someone winning a comp like ABS Nationals without climbing outside much if at all:

But as the strongest competitors specialize on indoor training walls, will rock climbing itself —that is, climbing rocks — become obsolete for competition climbers?

At some point I think this is certainly possible, especially as gyms continue to grow and comp problems continue to diverge from anything resembling “real” rock climbs¹.  However, in the near term I find this prospect unlikely as rising stars like Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi — both of whom are years away from being old enough to compete in ABS Nationals — already have impressive ticklists years before they will even be able to drive a car.

Another factor is that especially here in the U.
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S., competitions do not hold the same weight for the public and sponsors as do outdoor exploits.
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 That may change, but until that time it doesn’t seem like the incentives to focus solely on indoor climbing and competitions at a professional level is really there².

It is worth noting also that Daniel Woods won this year’s ABS Nationals despite not having climbed in a gym at all in the months leading up to the event.  Then again, when you’ve won 7 times previously as Woods had, maybe you don’t need as much practice?
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