Magnus Midtbø reports on his website that he has done the likely second ascent of Ali Hulk Extension SDS (5.15b), a hyrbid boulder-route in Rodellar, Spain’s Ali Baba cave first done in 2007 by Dani Andrada.
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The climb can be broken up into 2 5.14c-ish sections with the first being done as a boulder problem and the second part done using a rope clipped into a harness on the climber part way through the climb. Says Midtbø:
Finally did it! More than three weeks of working the route in the ali baba cave.
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I am so relieved! I only had one and a half days left in Rodellar – perfect timing. I was so close yesterday, so I knew that I could do it today if I wasn’t too tired.
Here are a couple of videos to give you an idea what the climbing is like in the Ali Baba cave:
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfLzLzSSzVE]
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lswuk2szSI0]
Has he said anything about the proposed grade?
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He seems to confirm the grade by referring to it as 5.15b in his blog update and registering it as such on his 8a scorecard. It would be interesting to hear more about it though considering the unique attributes of this climb in particular.
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Here’s an interview from Magnus about the route. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57561
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