As usual when we go out of town I fell way behind on my obsessing over what other people are doing in the climbing world. It took me a few days to get through everything in my reader, but I think I am finally caught up. Here are a few things that caught my eye, but feel free to let me know in the comments if you think I might have missed something else worth noting.
- Dead Point Magazine is a bi-monthly climbing magazine that will be launching in October. If you are thinking that there are already too many climbing magazines you might be right. The difference with Dead Point is that it will be distributed for FREE. Someone with a lot more knowledge about the business, Dougald MacDonald, has some thoughts on whether or not it will work. So far their website looks pretty cool although some of the pages don’t work when I load them in Firefox. They have a good interview with Adam Taylor who was recently the first person to repeat The Crew (5.14c) in Rifle after a bunch of holds broke. Also worth noting is their promise to pay you $1000 if you can repeat an Ethan Pringle 5.14c at Clark Mt. This is an interesting concept, but as you can see in the next item, simply getting to this crag is going to require 5.14 driving skills.
- Speaking of Clark Mt., according to Chris Lindner you are going to need that $1000 bounty just to get your vehicle up to the crag due to a recent rainstorm washing out much of the road.
The “road” to Clark Mt.
Photo: Chris Lindner
- This is not really newsworthy per se, but I found it interesting nonetheless. Chris Sharma recently repeated his problem The Buttermilker (V13) over 9 years after he made the FA. In the middle of the summer no less.
- Jason Huston has a good post up about the self-entitled nature of climbers showing through (even more than usual) in Rifle lately. Especially humorous is his calling out of a certain famous female free solo BASE jumper who may or may not be married to a famous BASE Soloist.
- If you are ever contemplating a trip to Yosemite to do some bouldering, be sure to check out this comprehensive list of quality Yosemite boulder problems at each of the grades.
- Cloudveil is offering up to 60% off on some items until 9/1 (Via Splitterchoss).
- Nicolas Favresse recently made the 2nd ascent of the Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish. Check out his website for some great pictures of him on the route.
Photo: Ben Ditto
- So how many of you have seen Dosage 5 so far?? If yes, how did you like it? If no, what are you waiting for?? I hope to have a review put together soon.
i have watched dosage five. i have enjoyed watching dosage five. therefore, i enjoyed dosage five.
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also picked up dosage V the other week…
watched it once, and really, only two doses stick in my mind.. the first being the very last dose with beth rodden firing that brutal looking crack climb, Meltdown. yikes! mad props to her for doing that. the kind of pro she was putting up at the end of the climb.. i’d be very skittish to be climbing beyond that!
the other dose i enjoyed was the one of robinson, woods and the FA of Jade…
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by far the best dose is Arkansas, chad and dave and ty are great characters and yosemite bouldering is pretty nice as well. the rest are really slow and boring. Meltdown looks dumb and chipped.
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The Dave Graham doses have consistently been among the best of the doses that have comprised each Dosage movie.
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Jamie,
I thought the original lure of meltdown was that it had never been aid climbed and therefore ‘chipped.’ having only seen the pics and not the vid, does it indeed look like it has pin scars??
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I thought dosage V was pretty good, memorable but not as much as some of the others… that said the videography and quality was the best of any climbing film i have seen thus far.
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I felt D5 was over all pretty sick. One thing that was different this time around though, was a lot of pure sendage, and not a lot of commentary or interview. I found this disconnected me from it a little. I didn’t realize until I saw D5 that I enjoy knowing WHY a certain climb was chosen, what it meant to the ascentist, what they thought, what their struggles were, etc….
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I liked Dosage 5. Maybe not as much as 4 but still was really good. Yosemite bouldering was sick, as was Meltdown and Colorado bouldering. Wasn’t as psyched on china but Arkansas and spain were solid too.
I will say that the Arkansas dose wasn’t as good as the D3 Arkansas in my opinion. Also, Meltdown didn’t look chipped to me. That’s just my opinion though.
Much more sending and less projecting though. I like the projecting aspect more personally. Just my thoughts.
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