Daniel Woods, writing about his recent FA of The Process in Bishop, CA which he believes is V16:
To grade something like this is hard. Media loves big numbers and to see a progression with numbers. This line means so much more to me than just a number.
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I know and lived the mental/physical struggle this beast presented me and it is the hardest obstacle I have dealt with in my life thus far. The Process does not contain the hardest set of moves that I have ever done, but the full package really packs a punch. Linking v13 to v14 to v10 with scare factor involved is not easy.
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Really curious what he would say the hardest set of moves is. Hypnotized Minds? Ice Knife Sit? Hydrangea?
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This was actually very well written and interesting. I’m always impressed by Woods’ climbing, but also tend to cringe at his interviews.
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I think he has gotten a lot better at this in the past few years
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Strayer? Univ. of Phoenix?
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Huh?
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I don’t really think he called it a v16. At least that was definitely not my impression after reading the article. I think we will definitely know when he calls something v16. He will say it, not dance around it and leave it somewhat ambiguous. He is, however, able to climb v16 within his style, so maybe that day will come somewhat soon! Maybe DG’s exposure v.1 pipe dream rig or something cool. Or maybe he’ll finally update his 8a and settle on a concrete grade. Also, what a awesome write-up! So cool to hear elite boulderers really talk about everything that goes into a line like this. Also cool that he respected Dan’s naming of it.
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I believe the general sense is that when a climber refers to a problem as being “in their style” that their subjective experience probably undersells the difficulty that potential repeaters would experience. So, his comments regarding The Process being a step up for him, & in his style, seemed to me to be an indication that he feels The Process is V16, although he was clearly not willing to explicitly say as much. Not sure if others interpret such comments similarly…
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I think I tend to agree with Chris, to me the final paragraph is saying V16. What does it mean to say “I feel confident after all these years of climbing, that I have reached a v16 level within my style, and that is all that matters to me.” if not that the line he just climbed is v16?
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It read as a V16 to me.
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This has been a tumultuous few years for the bleeding edge of bouldering. Some crazy talent has arisen, blocs have been crushed, egos frazzled… I think when the dust settles some boulders that are being called V15, will get upgraded, V16 will lose a bit of it’s mystique, and we’ll be on to V17!
Or…
The whole grading system will collapse, sending the climbing world crashing into an alternate universe where underclings face up, all the side-pulls are gastons, and boulder problems start with top-outs and end when your butt gently makes contact with the pad.
My money is on the former.
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“I knew the crux for me had nothing to do with being fit enough, but facing fear and channeling it into a positive emotion instead of one that is negative.”
And…
“[Hypnotized Minds] just does not have is the mental factor and that is what separates The Process from the rest.”
The Process is beyond the V. E12. E is for extreme, folks.
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Unless this problem is on your tick list who cares what vermin number it receives?
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I am aware that some climbers are not interested in the exploits of top climbers and speculation about high-end grades, and that’s fine, people like what they like. But I am endlessly mystified by the fact that so many such people read and comment on climbingnarc.com… That’s practically what the whole site is about.
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Still? This site is dying a slow death. Most weeks it’s just video friday and nothing else.
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Words hurt, Dave
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Hilarious response. But really, you gotta prove him wrong Narc. Maybe climbing is losing popularity and there are just fewer events to report on… maybe.
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Well I’m just going to have to find a new climbing news needle to stick in my arm. Geez it’s not like you have a Real Job or anything.
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I haven’t been able to get rid of that pesky job, but I did just get rid of the distraction of living in Boulder so there may be be hope…
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I didn’t get the Climbing Narc logo tattooed on my neck just to have this site die. What will I tell my grandchildren if I can’t point to you delivering quick news about the latest alpine V18 put up by Ashima’s daughter?
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Please don’t let Climbing Narc die, I also got some ink to show my support. http://imgur.com/21IPlS9
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I’d be curious to see a few of the top boulderers submit a list of the hardest 5 boulders they’ve tried. Woods, Graham, Nalle, Webb, Ondra, maybe others all need to chip in. Maybe a consensus on v16 could be reached, or maybe we’d find that its all personal. or maybe we’d find that people need to try more of the same boulders to reach a consensus.
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Yes do it! Narc, cummon ask’em all man. That’d be so rad to see. So rad.
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I wouldn’t start freaking out yet; Jimmy Webb will downgrade it.
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That seems pretty unlikely given the style of the problem
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It is kinda funny that in this digital age where everyone has each other’s hastags, insta tweets, friend book etc. that someone hasn’t tried to contact/poll some of the strongest boulderers and just ask – regardless of grade- what are your top 10 hardest problems you’ve done. And if any on the list seem to be that next level harder than the others. If Jenz would take a break from his endless lists, polls, climbing is unique …, he could have easily pulled this together.
Narc – I think you might have more street cred – with the less bombastic style – can you make this happen? We believe in you!
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Thumbs up if you wanna see the list! Narc- your in a good position to make it happen man!
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Sounds like the crux hold broke while Dan Beall was working it. The line has seen many breaks before this as well.
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Actually, it sounds like he broke a hold that Daniel didn’t use for the crux.
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