Archive | August, 2014

Video Friday – 8/29/2014

All the latest videos can be found here, but here are the top rated videos of the past week:

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Kai Lightner Profile

I posted this this video to the ClimbingNarc Facebook page on Tuesday and it got an incredible response, so if you haven’t taken 10 minutes to watch this profile of Kai Lightner I highly recommend it

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R.I.P. Flyin’ Brian McCray

Nice post by Mikey at DPM about the sad passing of legendary route developer Flyin’ Brian McCray from an apparent suicide:

Brian’s impact on New River Gorge climbing cannot be overstated. He moved to Fayetteville, West Virginia in the mid-90s, quickly progressed to climbing the hardest routes, and then set about equipping the routes of the Cirque with his then girlfriend Roxanna Brock. In just more than a year, Brian established over 20 climbs on the intimidating blank canvas including Proper Soul, the region’s first 5.14a. And then he was gone—off to the West to claim speed records on El Cap big walls, first ascents on the big walls of Zion, alpine walls in Alaska, hundreds of sport routes, and many more adventures.>

My most vivid memory of McCray’s routes was down in the Red River Gorge a few years back when we visited a recently rediscovered crag that he had apparently developed in the 90’s before moving on to other things.  Most of the routes had been rebolted, but above the anchors of one of the routes remained two rusty anchors from a different day and time.  In between burns on what was an incredible route I distinctly remember staring at those bolts trying to put myself in the shoes of McCray as he was bolting this crag some 15-20 years prior.

What was it like to come across this wall when it was still a blank slate?  What were those days spent bolting like?  The rusted anchors I saw were maybe 10 feet above the present day anchors, could he have actually climbed the blank section between the two?  Could he have ever imagined that people would think that some of the routes he bolted there were runout?  The answers are, of course, not that important, but I’m guessing that McCray’s work has been felt in similar ways by many climbers over the years.

My condolences to Brian’s family and friends.

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Wurm, Ondra Win 2014 Bouldering World Championships

After a thrilling battle Saturday night that saw both the men’s and the women’s competition come down to the final attempts by the final climbers, Adam Ondra and Juliane Wurm emerged as the 2014 Bouldering World Champions.

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Video Friday – 8/22/2014

The highest rated videos of the past week

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2014 Bouldering World Championships This Weekend In Munich

This weekend is the highly anticipated 2014 Bouldering World Championships in Munich, Germany.  Several Americans will be joining a massive field full of the best male and female competition climbers from over 40 countries, all looking to take the coveted title of World Champion.  One notable absence from the field will be Austrian legend Anna […]

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Alex Honnold And The Relativity Of Risk

Alex Honnold, writing for Alpinist about his free solo of El Sendero Luminoso:

That meant five more people who’d flown down and who were now waiting for me to solo a big wall. And despite everyone’s assurances that I should only do what I felt comfortable with, and that they could film any other, easier route if I changed my mind, it was hard not to feel a little pressure.
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I’ll be curious to hear him talk about this and more tonight at the Boulder Theatre as part of The North Face’s Speaker Series.
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 You can tune in live at 7 PM MDT for a live feed from the event.

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