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Busy week for 13-year-old Ashima Shiraishi in Rocklands, South Africa as she has done repeats of Betta Move (V13) and Fred Nicole’s Golden Shadow (V14) according to her Instagram. This marks her 1st V14 and at least her 5th V131. Impressive to say the least.
- Crown of Aragorn, Fragile Steps, The Automator and one other I can’t think of ↩
Steady Plums (Direct? something like that) is the last one.
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Not to mention the second female to climb V14 no?
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Tomoko Ogawa climbed Dai’s V14 Catharsis in Japan in 2012.
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D’oh, didnt mean to write the response like that. Yeah dave, 2nd female v14 right?
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I think Ashima’s done 6 v13s? Crown of Aragorn, Steady Plum Direct, Fragile Steps, The Automator, One Summer in Paradise, and now Betta Move.
Wouldn’t be surprised to see her take down Amandala this trip too.
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Sounds correct to me
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Any know how Golden Shadow climbs (compression, crimpy, big moves, slopers, etc.)? Just curious. Ashima is a terrific climber – pretty cool watching her on the men’s route for that super final at whichever NE comp that was.
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https://vimeo.com/46529977
Watch Nalle and Daniel try it at 3:29 in that video
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Interesting contrast. Now the obvious question is did she do it Daniel’s way, Nalle’s way or a different way? 🙂
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I’d guess different, but it would be interesting to see
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Looks like Nalle’s on Instagram (also see Sandstone’s comment on her photo).
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Ashima didn’t quite do the same route as the guys. They added a few holds for the womens SF.
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How do you add holds to rock? She’s using what’s there and she’s more than likely using tiny little holds that the guys would deem bad feet and she has to use them because of being so much shorter. This route was probably harder for her than it would be for a guy for that very reason. You should be giving her extra props rather than spewing that negative crap. Douchebag.
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Relax buddy. He was answering my question about the women’s Super Final (SF) route at a recent comp in the NE.
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I hear Shauna joined the V14 club with “New Base Line” just recently.
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Anyone have history of or information on Betta Move? With the hard problem traffic in Rocklands every summer (and my above average climbing nerdiness), I’m surprised I haven’t heard of it before.
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