Archive | May, 2013

Climbing Banned At Castle Rocks, ID

More bad access news, this time from Idaho:

On April 17, 2013, the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in Idaho announced that all rock climbing activity will be banned on its 400-acre portion of the Castle Rocks Interagency Recreation Area, citing the need to protect cultural resources.

…snip…

The BLM’s decision to ignore the same climbing management plan it helped create is totally unnecessary and unjustified. The Access Fund, Boise Climbers Alliance, Eastern Idaho Climbers Coalition, and the American Alpine Club are appealing BLM’s April 17th decision, but we need your help!

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5.14 Trad Ascent By James Pearson

A few weeks old, but this a nice report by James Pearson about his efforts to do the 2nd ascent of an old 5.14 sport route in La Balma, Switzerland called A Denti Tretti on natural gear:

when I first came to look at the route 1 week ago there were cobwebs in the cracks and it had obviously been a long time since anyone’s last visit.  Perhaps its the obvious difficulty in leaving the floor that puts people off, but past that initial section, the route looked just as good, if not better than its popular neighbour.
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  Even better still, it looked to be relatively well protected, and I decided to give it an on-sight attempt, directly on trad gear!
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Arizona Climber Killed By Bee Stings

Sad news the other week out of Arizona:

A climber’s body was found covered in bee stings and hanging off a southern Arizona cliff on Monday. His faithful dog was lying dead on top of the ridge.

Steven Johnson, 55, was last seen on Friday hiking in the Santa Rita Mountains with his dog right beside him. The Santa Cruz County Sheriff’s Office found Johnson hanging off Mount Hopkins in his climbing gear. The cause of death has yet to be determined, but officials suspect a bee attack.
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There’s a nice thread of rememberances on MountainProject for a guy who sounded like an incredible asset to the Arizona climbing community.  My condolences to his family.
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2013 IFSC Bouldering World Cup – Log Dragomer Replay

Watch the entirety of the 2013 Bouldering World Cup in Log Dragomer, Slovenia live starting early Saturday morning

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Video Friday – 5/10/2013

Video Friday – 5/10/2013

The highest rated videos of the past week

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Ammagamma Sessions

Keith Bradbury, who is perhaps best known for his work on films 85 Days in Font and Between The Trees, is back in the climbing game after a long break.  This also means he’s back in the blogging game, and he just got done writing a pretty fascinating series of blog posts about his efforts to repeat the well-known Grampians V13, Ammagamma.

The catch?  Bradbury, who had previously climbed V13 some years back, was coming off a long break from climbing and had only climbed as hard as V7 before starting to project Ammagamma.
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 I won’t spoil the end except to share this bit from his unsuccessful 4th session on the problem.  Sound like anything you might do?

Here I was on my honeymoon and I was 100% focused on a boulder problem. I told Emily that I didn’t think I could leave without climbing Ammagamma. I told her I’d change my flight to NZ so that I could stay in the Grampians another week to keep on trying.
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What was I really saying? She told me that I just needed 1 good go, that I was going to do it this session.

How could I reconcile my own selfish pursuit with the fact that I was here with my wife? I didn’t know if I really would stay. I’d said it to gauge a reaction… but just saying it had made me ask bigger and deeper questions.

Check out the 5 part series by clicking the links below:

 Part 1 Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5

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Another 5.14c Onsight By Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra notches 5.14c onsight #15 if you’re scoring at home.

I’m starting to think this kid has a bright future in this here climbing game.

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