James Lucas, writing about why he removed the iconic chalk lightning bolt outline from beneath Midnight Lightning in Yosemite:
Over thirty years, with every passing ascent, the lightning bolt became less of a testament to a remarkable ascent, of lightning striking at midnight. The chalk transformed into a trademark, another tourist attraction for passing climbers. The magic left the bolt years ago.
The magic may have left the bolt for Lucas “years ago”, but myself and many others don’t appear to share that sentiment. Each time I’ve visited the Valley and seen the Columbia boulder and its trademark lightning bolt there was a sense of history that came along with seeing it. I agree that the chalk lightning bolt had become a trademark, but to me this was a good thing, not a bad thing.
The new bolt remains slightly duller than the last incarnation.
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How long will it remain that way?
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Does climbing need these trademarks?
My guess is that it won’t stay this way for long.
No matter what your position is and how you rationalize it, I feel like making a decision about an unarguably iconic symbol in the climbing community is on some level extreme and perhaps selfish.
However, delving deeper, and giving Lucas the benefit of the doubt, there is more to be said about undertaking an act that is almost certainly going to be reversed, with the foresight that the erasing makes a statement and will incite valuable discussion and reflection as a community, without any real physical permanence. It certainly made me consider why I was initially unsettled by the cleaning of a mark that has stood the test of time yet was created with such an easily removable substance. Maybe nobody would have listened had it just been a blog post . . .
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In climbing, its not really appropriate to mess with other peoples things, If Bachar put it up, only he should be allowed to take it down, Hes gone RIP so it should be up. No two ways around that. This guy overstepped hard. Shame on him.
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Thank god this brave man has stepped up and removed such a heinous eyesore that everyone has been talking about removing for years, its like the removal of the bolts on the compressor route but even more iconic!!! dude so inspiring!!!! haha j/k, seems like the blogger just wanted some attention, good way to do it without much work, way easier than climbing something rad thats for sure
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I still don’t exactly understand why he felt compelled to do this? I don’t really care either way, but it’s not exactly chopping the bolts off of Cerro Torre.
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Sad that this gets so much attention. I guess that controversy is news, and hits = dollars. I’d much rather hear about the new route that James and Nik Berry put up on Fifi buttress.
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I wouldn’t. The posed photo on the blog post of Nik climbing the boulder after the bolt was removed is clearly just his way of trying to be a part of the ordeal without having his name directly attached to it. I couldn’t care less what either of these guys do anymore.
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You of all people know how not in this for the money I am. I posted this because I figured it would generate a discussion like it has. Besides, I’m holding off posting about Yosemite FA’s until after you finish up your project 🙂
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Strange to do something in secret and then have an article on in a short while after. I get it though, I guess, I understand it meant something to him. However, it bugs me when o.g. boulderers apply that surfing mentality of “my turf and my wave man, efing tourists just here because I already was”. There was a lot of talk in there about Ron Kauk, how this has become just another tourist attraction. Considering that I’ve seen advertising at Yosemite for “Ron Kauk: A Climbers Journey”, I highly doubt he shares the same opinion that tourist attraction to Yosemite climbing is a bad thing.
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Sorry, but if you havent been higher than 12 feet off the ground in the valley, than your opinion of history, siginicance, and magic of rock climbing in Yosemite is simply uninformed, irrelevant.
My suggestion to you is climb the Monster Offwidth, and if you survive, ask yourself if this situation is still important.
In other words, if you havent felt the breathtaking exposure of being high above a piece of gear, birds soaring above you and the wind blowing your rope sideways, only then you might think this lighting bolt is a symbol of cimbing history and in anyway important.
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Oh yea, you totally get it. I mean, the only thing that determines one’s ability to know ANYTHING about history is trad climbing! Anything you read online, or hear around a campfire is totally worthless until you plugged gear. And we all know that unless you own a rack, you can’t have any common sense!
That’s ok, us boulderers really don’t care whether or not you trad folk respect us, just means more pebbles.. Also, let’s see you go send something like Flatline or, even more appropriately Midnight Lightning, and then I’ll give two sh*ts about what you think of bouldering in Yosemite.
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Actually, I have redpointed both Midnight Lightning and The Freerider, and can assure you I shit my pants much more on the latter (although I was scared for 1.2 seconds while topping out on my 3rd go). Overall, I have found pitches in the 5.9 – 5.10 range much more prone to pants-shitting then most lowball assdraggers you probably project.
All I am trying to say is that I think it is ironic that those hardmen of the past that you associate with the lightning bolt, those heroes that this bolt embodies… well all those guys would probably not consider any of you boulderers as Rock Climbers. In this way, this thread is a bunch of non-climbers spraying about what climbing means to them…
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Who cares which is more scary? I enjoy trying really hard moves without the risk of any serious injury. So f**k me right? God forbid anyone have a different opinion about what’s enjoyable than yours.
As for what guys like Kauk or Bachar would think of us: first off, don’t go putting words in other people’s mouths. Unless you’ve got a quote to back that up, you’re projecting your beliefs onto them. Second, I don’t care what they thought of me. I’m not living my life solely trying to emulate them. I think their list of achievements is absolutely impressive, and there are a lot of things I wouldn’t want to do. But part of that list of accomplishments is Midnight Lightning. Maybe it didn’t mean much to them, but I think it’s awesome. And I don’t care if any of the Yosemite hardmen, or you for that matter, agree with me or think it’s stupid. It’s not stupid to a lot of us. And by the way, if we’re going on public opinion, a lot of non-climbers think all forms of climbing are stupid and dangerous, so clearly we shouldn’t do it right? Since other people feel it isn’t a worthwhile pursuit? Or maybe we should all mind our own business and shut our mouths when it comes what other people value…
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Lol… and while all that is true, i still think its funny that all those guys that this lightning bolt represent would be much more saddened by the fact that most “Rock Climbers” that go to the valley match their tanktops to their team 5.10 slippers and never get more than 5 feet off the ground then by the fact that some lightning bolt was erased.
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Clearly you’re in the minority, everyone of your posts keeps getting downvoted heavily…
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To my knowledge, all those guys bouldered. Also, most boulderers I know and have met climb on a rope too, and many of these people LOVE trad climbing. Don’t let the few people who spend more time worrying about their appearance than climbing rocks turn you off to boulderers in general. After all, there is plenty of that type of person in any given discipline of climbing (or life), even trad climbing. Being a soul climber is a mentality, not a classification of which types of climbing objectives one chooses to overcome. Lastly, if there is anything that would piss off the old school climbers, it is bolting a perfectly good splitter crack. I bet they would be mostly ok with most of the other happenings in rock climbing…
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Complete B.S.
Anyone with the ability to do Midnight Lightning at all, let alone “3rd go”, wouldn’t refer to it as a “redpoint”. The same goes for Freerider, it’s not “The Freerider” unless you’re talking about one that’s not on El Cap. If you’d actually done it, you’d get the fricking name right.
Regarding your first comment, do yourself a favor and don’t presume to tell anyone that your experience [in anything] is somehow superior to their own. That goes for busloads of Japanese tourists gawking up at El Cap from the meadow to groups of guys in beanies with pads smoking bowls in Camp 4.
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birds soaring below you
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Hm. I climb hundreds of feet above ground (oftentimes high above my last piece) and am not much of a boulderer yet I appreciate the historic significance of the lightning bolt. Your arrogant attitude doesn’t intimidate the other “non-climbers” that you spoke of. Nor does it make their opinions “irrelevant”.
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In the blog post, James Lucas writes:
“The empty space lasted a week and a half before someone redrew the lightning bolt. I don’t know who put it back. It wasn’t me. It wasn’t Ron Kauk. It wasn’t John Bachar coming from his grave.”
By saying this, James is implying that only Ron Kauk or John Bachar should be allowed to redraw the bolt. But somehow they are not the only ones who should be allowed to remove it? There seems to be a striking disconnect here.
I could imagine another blog post from someone else:
“The lightning bolt lasted for thirty years before someone erased it. I don’t know who took it away. It wasn’t me. It wasn’t Ron Kauk. It wasn’t John Bachar coming from his grave.”
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So this guy just makes decisions for the entire climbing community now? His values and beliefs are what all climbers should mold theirs on? At least have some balls and brush it off during the day, not at night time, you wuss. He knows if he would have tried it during the day, someone would have slapped him.
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Hah! “why not remove the Starry-eyed Man at Hueco Tanks?”
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Gutless, Self-serving, Self-promoting vandalism
If he had any stones at all he would at least have posted on super topo -before taking any action- who he was, what he planned to do, and if the community was in any way in support of his actions. The community could have discussed. Then if you decide to be an arrogant turd, announce when you are going to do it so that other interested parties can be on scene to continue the discussion. What a jerk!
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or gloria for that matter
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I’ve lost a lot of respect for James Lucas. His writing and lifestyle are something I’ve always admired as someone who is able to do neither. But, by erasing what has become almost universally recognized as a historical symbol within the climbing community, James has overstepped his bounds. His actions have not “cleaned up” the boulder as he claimed to do, but instead ousted him as a self appointed spokesperson for the ENTIRE climbing community , and a narcissistic prick. Re-draw the bolt, and kick Lucas out of the valley, no respect!
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Redrawing the bolt won’t have the same significance. It wasn’t forged in that same moment that it was thought up. That’s where the magic was. It would be like someone repainting The Mona Lisa and saying it was the original. What a shame. I see his point of view, but that’s not his call to make. It’s almost a tombstone symbol for Bachar, too. Alot of magic lost this day. What a fool he is.
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From what I’ve heard this is not the first time the bolt has been erased
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I like that he subtly pointed out that the lighting bolt hold had been reinforced, but took no issue with that. Instead, he chose the chalk drawing as something to focus his attention on. How insignificant and pointless.
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Thanks for strengthening the resolve of those who do care, to insure the lightning bolt will be there long after you’re gone, Mr. Lucas.
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AMEN! Maybe this (see discussion on super taco) will serve as a history lesson to some of the younger climbers out there. I’m all for preserving the environment, here’s an idea- show up at the next Access Fund event at your crag and donate man power to clean, improve trails, etc. and then blog about it!
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Wow James’ comments on SuperTopo make him sound like a serious ass “…the people who mind don’t matter and the people who matter don’t mind.”
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2125293&tn=140
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I haven’t yet been to Yosemite, but the bolt represents one of the truly beautiful and unique stories in climbing history. It may have lost its magic for Lucas, but it still inspires awe from virtually the entire climbing community. I’m simultaneously saddened that someone could be so non-empathetic, and heartened that the bolt was resurrected.
What was defaced publicly was restored anonymously; a nice reversal of the norm.
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I’ve never touched the Columbia Boulder. I’ve never taken a picture next to it, or even seen it in person. I’ve never even been to the valley, and in fact I’m not all that interested in bouldering. But, I was once inspired by the tradition of Midnight Lightning and had hoped to attack it in the future. The historical values that were presented its symbol made me proud to be a climber. The symbol was a tribute to climbing (not just bouldering) visionaries and it saddens me that some people think that its influence did not extend past the boundaries of Yosemite. I hope the new bolt is just as bold, inspiring, and as much of an “eyesore” as the original.
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“The magic left the bolt years ago.” Couldn’t DISAGREE more. One view of that iconic symbol is like a lightning bolt itself shooting back through recent climbing history –Kauk, Bachar, Long, Lynn HIll– the heroes, rebels and generation whose shoulders modern climbing in no small part stands upon. Its meaning has only intensified. This dude ought to be run out of the Valley. What a narrow-minded, self-serving, selfish act.
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Isn’t Camp 4 a historic site in a National Park? I wonder if this guy could be prosecuted?
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I think everyone here will agree that its not about trad, bouldering or sport. It has nothing to do with what you wear, or how hard you climb. What matters is that the symbol had been there for 3 decades, and the guy who put it up never went there to take it down. It was his. And for that reason, it was his to edit. Nobody elses. Period (as if the actual period wasnt overstated enough.)
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What a laugh. And what an egotistical goofball. The fact that someone would take an ethical stand on something so absurdly inconsequential is highly amusing.
Mr. Lucas, you need to put things in perspective. Get a girlfriend. Or a job. Call your mum. You’ve jumped the shark with this rock climbing thing.
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I don’t agree with what James did, but the idea that because 1 person put it there 30 years ago that means they are the only one who has any input on what happens to it doesn’t really make sense.
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James has always enjoyed stirring the pot and the ensuing attention. It’s chalk. It’ll be redrawn, move along. Yawn.
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I’m not sure the stonemasters that you are worshiping would be very happy with anonymous derogatory posts on a blog toward other climbers citing their assumed morals and values as the standard. Now please get off you pedestal and take off the tiara “princess” and go back to eating out of trash cans and pleasuring yourself with your #4 stopper as you seek to relive some glory days of life as a dirtbag climber getting high above the valley floor and pooping in a nalgene. I’m not judging, some people like to live and climb that way and more power to them. Personally I’ll continue to admire climbing in all its forms including those that don’t have deathfall potential and I’ll continue to remember and be inspired by a chalk bolt as well.
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Here is what the lightning bolt look like now: http://i2.cdnds.net/12/34/300×450/odd_ecce_homo_1.jpg
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“I don’t believe in styles, styles separate man from a process of continual growth.” Bruce Lee
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Winter is coming.
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I am all for the preservation and creation of art in the natural world. I have found much inspiration in the perfect canvases of blank stone on boulders and while I enjoy climbing it is even more delightful when those canvases are on the same boulders as amazing problems. I was thinking of undertaking an artistic project where I create drawings on iconic boulder problems in many different areas in the US. I was thinking mainly chalk drawings but possibly other mediums as well. Since it seems that many of you are very passionate about the art which has inspired my project, I was wondering if you could give me some feedback. I was curious which boulders you found most iconic and which would lend themselves to being the best canvases for this art. It will help me direct where I am going with this art project. Thanks!
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Um…. While many of us are expressing our passion for this particular piece of rockart, I,m not supportive of someone going out and “tagging” existing boulders or problems. This boulder, the problem, the location and most importantly this history are very unique- read the entire super taco thread for details. It’s all of these facets coming together that make the lightning bolt special. Adding chalk art to existing problems would lack the right ingredients for poignancy.
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I’m reminded of the end of Billy Madison when I think of James’ argument for removing the bolt:
“what you’ve just said is one of the most insanely idiotic things I have ever heard. At no point in your rambling, incoherent response were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone in this room is now dumber for having listened to it. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul.”
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The eraser is a troll that trolled MP, ST, this site and many others by erasing some chalk off a boulder.
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Perhaps so, but I think this was still an interesting conversation to have
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Of all the great outrages in this world against which to take a morally courageous stand, this guy picks the lightning bolt?
Did I just say morally courageous? Oh wait, he did it at night. And then sprayed about it on the internet. So: righter of historic wrongs, or attention-seeking weasel? I’m inclined towards the latter. None of his defenses rang especially true for me (‘the people who mind don’t matter’…really? and just who are the people who matter?).
Look. I think we’re all in agreement that every new boulder problem does not demand eternal memorialization in any medium, chalk included. We have also come to a place where every new big-wall route does not demand a bolt ladder to the summit, a la’ Harding, or stringing miles of fixed rope on huge alpine faces (OK, if you’re Russian, we’ll talk). But allowances can be made for circumstance. Harding gets a pass because he was the first one up the Captain. Hillary gets a pass on the sieging thing for being the first one up Mt. Whatsitscluster. And the lightning bolt is an expression of a particular, game-changing, time and place. That time has passed, but it continues to inspire.
The guys who climbed the Lightning (and I am not one, not even close) chose to memorialize this particular pebble-wrassle because they knew it was special. They didn’t do it again. Leave it alone, and find a better way to draw attention to your blog.
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F*ck you Lucas! I hate you with a passion! I’ve always dreamed of going to the valley to try midnight lightning with that iconic lightning bolt. My climbing dream gone forever because of your self serving vision. How dare you!
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