Great show once again with Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio winning ABS Nationals for the 7th time each!
| Men’s Final Results | Women’s Final Results |
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Thanks again to everyone who tuned in for the live coverage. Hopefully everyone enjoyed the show. More to come…
Posted In: American Bouldering Series, Bouldering, News
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What happened with Garrett? I wasn’t able to watch tonight. Saw on Twitter he had an appeal and it was granted and he made US National Team. Not sure what the situation was prior though.
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Dispute was over his control of a hold high on M2
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So Carlo got kicked from the national team?
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I wouldn’t use that word, but I believe that is what happened
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Tough break for him. He really dug deep on his last go to give himself a chance at making the team, and it was awesome to see. I was yelling at my computer screen.
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Anyone else creeped out by DW’s shameless redbull promotion? Do they give him a smaller check if he doesn’t hold the can with the words facing forward? Even on the podium?
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DW isn’t a redbull athlete. He was simply drinking redbull and took it with him to the podium. I’m pretty sure he wasn’t even thinking about it . . .
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Not really. I don’t have a problem with anyone trying to make money doing what they love.
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Yes. He looked like a tool. Nobody casually holds a can at the bottom with the label facing out. It was over the top. Maybe he’s looking to become Ivan’s replacement. Now I’ve got nothing against sponsorship, I even love Redbull, it just looked goofy and posed.
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That’s just how he holds things – go through any of his videos where he’s holding anything (a shoe, a brush, a chalk bag) and you’ll see that he holds things in the same way. I noticed it too because I’ve always thought he had a funny way of holding things.
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Hell yeah Morgan I thought the same thing…!
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The difference between Woods and everyone else on final #3 was pretty shocking. Ian Dory was also super impressive though, and if I’m reading the results correctly he was a matched finish hold on #2 away from winning. Great stuff!
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I think he should not be holding a Redbull can like that unless they are paying him. He’s giving them free advertising. There is no incentive for them to sponsor him if he gives it away like that.
As this sport progresses athletes need to become more aware of there value to bands.
Companies like Red Bull are worth 5 billion and spends hundreds of millions as as well. In 2010 they spent $675 Million on Formula 1. Holding that can is worth something.!!!!!!
lets not forget Adidas….. they’re worth about 14 billion and they spend hundreds of millions on sponsorship deals every year.
I just want to see these very talented people get paid 🙂
GREAT SHOW !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I think it’s safe to say that he was paid to drink that Redbull – just look at how he’s holding it. I also want to see very talented people get paid.
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That’s just not true. But I’m glad you want to see very talented people get paid 🙂
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whats not true ?
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The TNF hat was worn in honor of his grandfather who passed away on Valentines day. He wore that hat nearly every day for years.
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I was going through semi finals live feed just now and noticed something. Pete says that one of the local sponsors for the event is chick-fil-a…. did anyone else catch that?
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Yea, we caught that. It got a lot attention on Twitter as well, as everyone wondered “WTF?!” of course in regards to their stance on the issue of marriage equality.
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The tweets and messages about Chick-fil-a did not go unnoticed by higher ups at USAC during the comp
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So happy to see a solid Christian organization supporting the sport I love. Simply awesome!
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Oh goodness…
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Just straight ignorant dawg
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Good point about Chick-Fil-A…. Hate mongering folks who oppose marriage equality for same sex couples have no place as a sponsor of the sport we all love so much.
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Actually. Redbull might be a new thing for him.
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make up your mind
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Right? And who drinks Red Bull at the very END of a grueling athletic competition? Maybe DW was getting amped up to get his party back on? Doubt it.
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As far as the ‘red bull’ thing goes, it really isn’t a big deal… like, at all. Let the boy get some money for being the best in the world, if he was the Daniel Woods of Basketball he would be living in a 20 million dollar mansion but his sport isn’t ‘main stream’ and full of hipsters that want to keep our stars broke…
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in my opinion, chick-fil-a, or any group which so vehemently opposes equality for all has no place in our sport.
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My vote is that Daniel Woods is making money off this Red Bull racket: http://exposingemailscams.blogspot.com/2012/10/daniel-woods-red-bull-pay-to-advertise.html.
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My vote is you can’t believe everything you read on the internet
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btw, awesome job on the commentary narc! thanks for actually doing research prior to showing up
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Thanks! That was something I tried real hard on, although I definitely felt like there was room for improvement as well. It didn’t help that I felt like dying the entire time between semis and finals which limited my ability to prepare as much as I would have liked.
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Compared to every other live comp I’ve watched (mainly ifsc), this was the most well done. Cameras were actually on the competitors, commentary was relevant and interesting (no offense female alex johnson), there were almost no awkward silences (no offense female alex johnson), and live interviews provided an interesting prospective… minus a few audio problems in finals, this comp was an AWESOME and smooth viewer experience.
Now for the real question: In general, is it even remotely interesting for the general public to watch people climb walls?
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I climb and got way bored after 6-7 minutes.
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http://www.redbull.com/en/browse-all-athletes
Lets just clear the air on the whole Red Bull thing please. Dude was just drinking a Red Bull. Why care anyways?
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Hilarious to see 20+ comments on of all things a supposed Red Bull related fiasco. These competitions to me are always interesting because the routes are always different every competition. Its unique sport, and I feel that at almost every competition climbers end up failing or sending certain problems only because it fits their body type or strengths.. With extra emphasis on body type though. Some holds are just 2 inches too far away, and the “weaker” but slightly lankier climber can reach the finish hold. Or in the opposite case, a more compression related move with bad holds close together could be significantly easier for a shorter climber. Makes it more amazing that climbers like DW and the Alex Puccio can win so consistently. I guess once you reach a certain strength/power level, those height dependent moves become easier. Because with enough strength, good climbers can just pull up, and then go quite far past the hold they are grabbing. Also was cool the Ian Dory got second.. Wonder if it had anything to do with him being relaxed, and being able to face the crowd and not care they are there.. (kinda got that vibe from his .. arm raising meditation worship stretching thing. ). This is such an important factor as well it seems.. Chris Sharma was always kicking around a hacky sack or something during competitions. Being relaxed would definitely allow somebody to climb their best.. Nice work on the commentary Narc!! Killed it! haha.
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Agreed. It would be nice to hear see more comments on the event itself, but perhaps people exhausted their thoughts on the event as it happened or just didn’t see it.
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Height is almost never the limiting factor when reaching for a hold. Lock-off ability is.
Some people are tall, some people are short, some people are good at heel-hooks, some people are good at crimping, some people are good at dynos, some people are good at high-steps. These are all the result of physiological and morphological differences. Height differences are just easier to see. Everyone has their advantages and disadvantages, and they all tend to balance out in the end.
The only instance in this comp where it looked like someone was at a morphological disadvantage was Carlo on #3. He could reach that high pinch, but he was so stretched out and pressed against the wall that when he tried to get his foot up on the foothold, it pushed him out and away from the wall. But then again, Woods is the same height and he made it look easy.
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Makes sense.
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Meh. Just because someone comments on something on the internet doesn’t mean it really “matters” to that person. Many use internet commentary just as a simple diversion from boredom, to get in some “virtual” interaction with real human beings, etc. Obviously, no one really cares too much if DW is hawking Red Bull on the sly and most climbers would say “good for him” for sure. Hopefully, people are just having a bit of fun, really. I guess “off topic” comments are frowned upon by some moderators . . . so since I’m guilty I apologize if this is one such forum.
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Also wanted to add that on a move like that slab, Daniel and Carlo could be the same height, but if Daniel had a bigger wingspan he would be less stretched out, and thus be just within being able to do the move whereas Carlo would be just unable to do the move. To justify that that move was equally reachy for Daniel as for Carlo would require that their toe to finger tip measurement be compared, and any climber worth a shit knows that. Further, I would argue the event organizers have climbers among their ranks who are worth a shit. Given we were only told “on good authority”, by the event organizers I may add, that Carlo and Daniel are the same height, this just looks shady, and that sucks. Climbing is a fun past time for most and that kind of shit just spoils it, so I really hope I am seeing things that are not there.
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Also forgot to mention, great to see the Dark Horse fellows come out on this one! Ian Dory damn near rocked it for the men! And who the heck are Garret Gregor, Peter Dixon, and Isabelle Faust? Awesome to see so many shredders!
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Chris Danielson is about the most experienced American routesetter ever, if you’ve had a problem with the way Nationals are set for the last 10 years or so, chances are he was there. Scott Mechler was responsible for a fair amount before that if I am remembering the PCA days correctly. If I heard Narc right, Jeremy Hardin was head setter this year, pretty talented guy out of VA who has been working his way up the ranks of nationally recognized setters.
And Faus isn’t a new name for those of us on the east coast… she started college in New Hampshire and has been tearing up every comp this way since (Including every step of the Dark Horse series). I was glad to see the number of unrecognized climbers in semis even (Andrew Kim representing!)
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it’s so boreing to watch plastic, i don’t even tune in, let alone watch comp highlight reels. and yes, i climb, a lot.
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And?
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“Makes sense..” was @Narc. @Dan, Are you sure that your above mentioned example was the only case of morphological advantage in the comp?? It seemed that some of the women’s problems seemed to have cruxes involving gymastic, or balancy moves. Not a whole lot of enduro micro crimp routes. Maybe that’s just the way it looked. Maybe the setters are trying to set good routes that are also fun to watch.
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“Maybe the setters are trying to set good routes that are also fun to watch.” I’m pretty sure this has been the route setters goals for big comps like this since the beginning of big comps….look back at the first x-games climbing comp where Chris Sharma won…big dynos and interesting routes not for the climbers but for the fans….
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