Just a day or two after Daila Ojeda did the FFA of Mind Control (5.14c) at Oliana Nina Caprez succeeded in redpointing the route as well. She calls the route a “perfect line” on her blog where she also had this to say about the grade:
The grade of Mind Control is really not extreme. If somebody will downgread, why not.
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But honestly, grades are so unimportant.
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I’ve had the chance to climb such a fantastic line and I feel so alive and my body is full of energy and power. I can realize my dreams, what else counts in live?
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This better not get downgraded, mostly for the fact that these women are gorgeous!
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Damn, then I say we grade the next set of stairs Kristen Stewart walks up V14!
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Easy fellas
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I hope it doesn’t get downgraded since these women are awesome and doing spectacular things on the rock.
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Didn’t Dave Graham have a hard time with Mind Control? I can’t imagine too many routes that give him a lot of trouble would be prime candidates for downgrades.
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Can’t you read in between the lines? THAT is the downgrade. She clearly doesn’t think the grade of 8c+ is accurate, Otherwise why would she even make a point of mentioning the possibility of a downgrade. Blah, blah, blah Dave Graham.
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Yes Nina clearly thinks from her write up that it’s either ‘easy’ 8c+ or 8c, but like any route that’s just her opinion. It doesn’t mean the route is necessarily knocked by the community consensus yet. Although granted there have been others who have suggested this as well.. it has still had at least 10 ascents that didn’t offer a downgrade.
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I think thats a good point. It seems like as soon as 1 person thinks a climb deserves a downgrade, everyone jumps on the bandwagon even though there is a history of ascents confirming the higher grade. It’s become an ego game (no judgement, just an observation). No one wants people to think that they are inflating grades and so the opposite happens. I think this is especially evedent with female ascents. As soon as a girl climbs something the common reaction is to think “well I guess it can’t be that hard then”. In reality these girls are CRUSHING.
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I think it’s great that women are part of the high end grade discussion, and not in the old way of ‘once a girl sends it gets a downgrade.’
Grades are a funny thing, and since they are generally just a suggestion, it’s interesting how long an inaccurate grade can stick around. I’ve bolted a handful of routes, taken a guess at the grade, and my friends almost always agree, ‘yeah, that seems about right.’ I think it is harder to be the first to suggest a different grade, but once someone does, it is easier to go along with.
I don’t know much about this route or this crag other than what I’ve seen on this site. I will suggest that certain routes get a reputation for being the first target at a grade. I don’t know if this is the case for Mind Control or not, but climbs that get the designation as ‘a good first 5.xx’ tend to have that rep for a reason–they are soft. How many try Welcome To TIjuana?
Finally, there is always talk of the route that fits ‘your style.’ You know what fits everyone’s style? Soft grades. If you want the big number, go for the ‘best first 5.xx’. If you want an honest number, go for something that has already been downgraded.
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She may just be the first to say what everyone else who has done it already knows. Climbers with scorecards to fluff and/or sponsors to keep happy, aren’t always eager to downgrade their accomplishments. Good thing the rock doesn’t care what number it gets called. In the end it really doesn’t matter. You try very hard, climb the rock and come back down and move on to the next one. Honesty… though… You gotta to love honesty. Unless, it bruises your gentle ego.
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Caprez has offered underhanded downgrades for many of the lines she’s done in Oliana. Interesting that Ondra, who is generally not afraid to downgrade things, has confirmed many of the grades there.
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What makes a downgrade suggestion ‘underhanded’? Saying ‘it may be soft’ instead of ‘it is soft’ ?
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Comments about how it probably is easier but who cares. That sort of thing.
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