post
Chris Sharma Does First Ascent Of First Round First Minute In Margalef
After a prolonged, well documented and at times even controversial battle, Chris Sharma has done the first ascent of his First Round First Minute project in Margalef, Spain according this post on girlfriend Daila Ojeda's blog. Sharma, who turns 30 on Saturday, had spent the past few years working on the short, bouldery route only to fall repeatedly on the last move leading some to speculate the route could be 5.15b.
With the climbing world rightly distracted by the amazing accomplishments of the young Czech phenom Adam Ondra, it's nice to see Sharma out there holding it down for the "old" guys...
More details as they come, but until then here is a clip of Sharma trying FRFM from the 2010 Reel Rock Film Tour:
Update: As usual these days PlanetMountain has the interview with Sharma discussing the send
Update #2: Rock & Ice has a nice write up by Andrew Bisharat who recently spent time with Sharma in Spain and has a few more words from Chris himself about how the day went. Apparently Sharma sent FRFM on a whim after trying a potential 5.15c project earlier in the day.
Update #3: More in this Prana blog entry written by Sharma himself
26 comments
Yeah!!! Finally!!! So psyched for Sharma!
Who knows. He tried that thing so many times(way more probably than his other 15b's). Maybe 15c? Be interesting to see if he'll say anything about the grade after the send. Maybe it was just more of a mental war for him.
next week's headline:
"adam ondra nabs second ascent of first round, first minute after four attempts, suggests hard 15b"
What a stupid thing to say.
it was a joke, shawn.
Yes!!! Been waiting for this all year!!!
was that rope on?
Was BigUp there to film the FA?
Doesn't sound like it
Sick, so great to see.
Yeah!
get chris' lookalike (daniel woods ) on it !:)
Thats right, get DW on it so he can give it 15d, then have it downgraded as usual. Then he would complain that prior ascentionists did different beta or brushed the holds until they "grew"
DW just downgraded Ill Trill...he's not always the one getting downgraded
Fanboy fight!
really?
2011 is insane so far! Makes me want to train!
How does this sound? 15c if done in evolv shoes and 15b if done is fivetens or sportivas.
Maybe it's just me, but the fact that the project was closed to certain climbers sorta takes away from the "FA" really meaning anything significant...
He opened up the project to anyone a while ago. But I'd venture to guess a lot of climbers stayed away from it anyways out of respect?
Doubtful.
http://climbingnarc.com/2010/03/the-lowdown-on-first-round-first-minute/
not to me. He had ever right to close it. He's given so much to the community, if he wants to climb what he put the work into and paid for...he's earned it!
not to me. He had ever right to close it. He's given so much to the community, if he wants to climb what he put the work into and paid for...he's earned it!
I hope Nalle goes back to try it. That way he can get shut-down and everyone will stop pretending like there was a chance that Nalle would go from repeating soft 8c+ as his hardest sport route to doing the FA of something that's at least 9b, over Chris and his huge headstart working the route. I'm a huge Nalle fan but that whole thing was a joke and a dick move on his part. At least try an established 15 before you go jumping on a hard 15 that someone has put a lot of work into.
Let's not get carried away rehashing the discussion from last year...
bound to happen.
I'm interested in how long it will take adam to send it. This is not to put down sharma's accomplishment. I just want to see how strong this kid really is...If he send this thing in no time he really will be on his way to some amazing FA of his own