Chris Sharma’s groundbreaking ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) at Clark Mountain earlier this year has been covered exhaustively both online and in print. Since the ascent there have been several interviews with him that provide good insight into what it took to climb Jumbo Love, but I think a recent interview with Men’s Journal is worth checking out as well. It does a nice job of expounding on some of the points only briefly touched upon in previous interviews.
One point of specific interest to me is the speculation that Jumbo Love is the hardest route in the world.
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You’ll remember that I recently talked about how it might be premature to give Jumbo Love that title. Sharma offers a very thoughtful (and persuasive) response when asked by Men’s Journal how he can be sure Jumbo Love is the hardest route out there [emphasis mine]:
There’s a whole process behind rating these climbs. It is kind of a consensus after other climbers try a route. It’s hard to say it definitely is the most difficult climb in the world. This is the hardest climb I’ve ever tried. I know my limitations pretty well, and I’ve never seen something that’s been done that’s harder than this.
The rest of the interview is definitely worth checking out too. Among other topics, Sharma explains just how difficult it was to work on a route of such incredible difficulty at a remote crag like Clark Mt..
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Men’s Journal Chris Sharma Interview
Update: The Men’s Journal site appears to be down…
Update #2: The Men’s Journal site is back up…
Hey Narc, I think you crashed the Mens Journal server by directing attention to the article – can’t access it. “server unavailable”
heh…
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Ha. There ARE a lot of people clicking through, but not so much that I can take credit…as much as I would like to be able to 🙂
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Intersting that although Chris got shut down totally on Open Air, he still finds his own FA harder. No climber at the upper level is with out an ego.
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Very good point, I hadn’t thought of that. Although from what I gathered, when Chris tried Open Air conditions were decidedly sub-prime.
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Maybe he finds his own FA much harder because he actually trained for it, and spent much more time on it than he did on Open Air. I do not see how his statement makes him egotistical. Also perhaps more importantly if he said it was not all that hard there is no way people would do the heinous travel required to get on the route. I am sure he would love to have Adam Ondra or Patxi come try it.
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THE AIRING OF GRIEVANCES IS MY FAVORITE PART OF FETIVUS !!!!!!!!!1111111111
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I really don’t see why accepting that Sharma has an ego makes him a worse climber. Also, as I recall, Ondra tried OA with the wrong beta and then went back and sent [relatively] quickly after speaking with Huber. Perhaps Sharma, too, missed a few holds on OA and would be able to send.
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frikken cheater. you can’t thug your way through this… oh wait, you always can
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wick like a candle; WACK like tim kemple
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ooohhh who is this guy?
ooohh who is this guy?
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We should start a fundraiser to raise money to bring Adam Ondra to the States. This needs to happen soon…
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Hello!
Very Interesting post! Thank you for such interesting resource!
PS: Sorry for my bad english, I’v just started to learn this language 😉
See you!
Your, Raiul Baztepo
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Well… that’s very interessting but frankly i have a hard time figuring it… I’m wondering what others have to say….
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