Over the Labor Day weekend I had an opportunity to check out the crag Purgatory at the Red River Gorge. I had always wanted to go there pre-injury so I could check out the hyper classic route Paradise Lost (5.13b) but I sadly never made it there. Purgatory also made a lot of news last Fall when Mike Doyle sent the open project Lucifer and gave it the grade of 5.14c making it the hardest route at the Red and one of the hardest routes in the country.  Look for this to be one of the routes that sees a lot of action at the upcoming Petzl Roc Trip at the Red River Gorge.

Upon arrival at the crag I was not disappointed with what I saw. The section of the wall (pictured below) that contains the 5 main hard routes there is just awesome and it made me feel even more bummed that I had never been able to climb on it. One day maybe…

Road to Purgatory


Lucifer is the line in the middle

Amy warming up for a go on Lucifer


Future 5.17 projects??


Posted In: Pictures, Sport Climbing


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4 Responses to Purgatory

  1. Mark Kauzlarich April 4, 2009 at 1:12 pm #

    Hey Narc, I stumbled across this looking for beta on Purgatory. I’ve seen pictures of people climbing Paradise Lost and the area just looks so beautiful. Any idea where I could get some good beta on the climbs there? Mountain Project seems to be pretty dry on that.

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  1. Rocktoberfest Rocs Red River Gorge October 12th-14th « The Adventurist - September 16, 2007

    […] (5.13b) and Lucifer (5.14c).  For pics of this region and these two famous routes, stop on by the Climbing Narcissist Blog for some great shots taken over this past Labor […]

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