Ty Landman’s "Hour of Chaos"

Here is an excerpt from a nice write-up Ty did for moonclimbing.com about his recent repeat of Jade (V15):

I chalked my hands and arranged my hands on the start holds. I pulled on and entered a zone that I rarely visit.
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It felt as though I was almost under sea floating towards the surface. I executed the move and saw the light at the end of the tunnel. Don’t fall now, you cant fall now I was thinking. I still had a hard 8a to complete. I made the last three moves without thinking, like my brain had took over. Before I knew it, I was there, at the jugs that end the bouldery section of the climb, now I just had to top out into the darkness. I had climbed the problem like one only does in a dream – I couldn’t believe it was over.

For me this problem marks a new level in my climbing. I think it is an important testpiece for my generation, and that things will only get harder. Jade is the epitome of hard bouldering – a six move problem with a key crux move that stands out amongs the others. The hold is miniscule and conditions dependant, the wall is steep and the feet are lacking. The rock is flawless and the mountain setting unique.
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Jade is a modern world class bloc that hopefully is a sign of things to come.

Click the link to read the whole thing, it’s a pretty good description of the process that took place for him to realize this ascent.  Video from Chad Greedy is forthcoming on MomentumVM and/or Moonclimbing.