Tell Santa to take the week off…News & Notes is back with this massive dump of news…
Trotter Does First Repeat Of The Prophet (5.13d R)
Tommy Caldwell wasn’t the only person hard at work on the flanks of El Capitan this fall

New 5.13+ Multipitch By Trotter & Caldwell In Canada
Sonnie Trotter and Tommy Caldwell have teamed up to establish a 15 pitch route up the Diamond Face on Mount Louis in the Canadian Rockies. Dubbed The Shining, the route has 7 pitches that were bolted on lead with difficulties up to 5.13+. After three days of prep the pair returned to free all the pitches in a single push:
It is one of the best routes I have ever climbed, and I could not imagine having a better partner for it. In fact, if it were not for Tommy, it would definitely still be a project. He’s my ultimate hero.
News & Notes – 8/3/2011
A few lingering pieces of News & Notes left over from my recent vacation…
Sonnie Trotter Climbing The Path (5.14 R)
Video Friday: Mexican Big Walls, Lincoln Lake & New Video Page
The weekend is almost here and what better way to get ready for any weekend of climbing than to watch a couple of videos, right?
News & Notes – 08/03/2010
News & Notes from Dave Graham, Alex Honnold, the Pou brothers, another new 5.14 in Utah, more World Cups coming to North America and more…
Sonnie Trotter Back In Action
After spending the end of last year recovering from a ruptured appendix, Canada’s Sonnie Trotter is back in top form again with two notable ascents in the past couple of weeks.
News & Notes – 4/14/2010
News & Notes from Daniel Woods, Chuck Fryberger, Paul Robinson, the Teva Mountain Games and more…
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Narc: Haha. By definition it can't be V10 if I can do i...
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Jamiecemerson: I put that in the guide as V10 because Carlo was s...
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Isaac: 99 double digit boulders in 12 months??! That woul...
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Colin P: So intense....
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Dave: I tip my cap to your G-ness and fly lyrical abilit...
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Philly Cheese: I like this title! ...
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Tommy Wilson: its a different game. flashing with internets be...
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Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
February 9, 2012
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Dean Potter On Nat Geo This Sunday
February 9, 2012
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Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
February 8, 2012
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Great News From Red Rock
February 8, 2012
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Alex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
February 7, 2012
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Low Gravity Week In Fontainebleau
February 6, 2012
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Paul Robinson Punches His Ticket For Memory Is Parallax (V14)
February 6, 2012
News & Notes
Jimmy Webb’s Climbed 99 Problems And The Island (V14) Was One
Ok. Horrible title. Forgive me.
Anyway, Jimmy Webb is about a week into his first trip to Font. Last week he managed that one day ascent of Kheops Assis (V14), and according to his 8a scorecard this week he managed a relatively quick repeat of Dave Graham’s The Island a once V15 but now maybe V14 at Coquibus Rumont. This latest ascent puts him at 99 problems V10 or harder in the past 12 months which is notable for being 99 more V10s or harder than I’ve done in my entire life1.
Golden Direct Repeated By Ben Spannuth
Ben Spannuth, who recently started a blog at LT11, grabbed a rare repeat Golden Direct at the Cathedral in Southern Utah according to his 8a scorecard. Golden Direct was first done in 2008 by Joe Kinder at a suggested grade of 5.14d and was subsequently repeated by the likes of Chris Sharma and Jonathan Siegrist. Having climbed five other routes in the 5.14c/d range in the past 6 months, Spannuth felt Golden Direct warranted a grade of 5.14c.
1 CommentAlex Johnson Climbs Lethal Design (V12)
Alex Johnson gave the highballs in Bishop a break to check out the bouldering in Red Rock, Nevada where she repeated the V12 highball Lethal Design according to her 8a scorecard:
great support crew and tons of pads! long and crimpy. worked out all the moves quick and sent first burn.
Since the start of 2012 she has done some eight V10′s or harder across Yosemite, Bishop and Red Rock.
Update: Climbing.com caught up with Johnson to discuss the ascent
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