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It was a busy weekend for hard sending at the Red River Gorge’s Chocolate Factory with Jonathan Siegrist and Ethan Pringle both sending hard 5.14s

Mike Doyle recently surprised himself by redpointing The Route Of All Evil (5.14a) at the VRG. Check out his blog for an excellent post on this phenomena of the “unexpected send”.

If there is one dream I have, it is to simultaneously hold down a respectable job and travel the world climbing. Mike Doyle is living my dream. He has spent the last couple of years on the road, working his IT job remotely and climbing at some of the best areas across the world. Recently [...]
I realize lately that I have been spending too much time blogging about myself and not enough time talking about all the action going down elsewhere so here goes nothing: During his recent work on Trice, Jamie Emerson made a slight deviation from the line of Trice and nabbed the 3rd ascent after Karn and [...]

3 weeks ago, Fifty Words for Pump was a project at the Red River Gorge that nobody had been able to do over the course of 10 years. 3 weeks later it now has 3 ascents thanks to Mike Doyle’s recent repeat. Apparently the work put in by the pros during the recent Roctrip refined [...]

While 2 5.14c’s being climbed in one weekend at the Red River Gorge in KY is definitely a first, this is a sign of things to come this fall at the Red. First it was Sean McColl repeating Mike Doyle’s route Lucifer (5.14c) at Purgatory. Fresh off flashing a 5.14b, it only took Sean 4 [...]
This incredible photo essay by Keith Ladzinski from his trip to Australia last year with Dave Graham, Nalle Hukkataival and Ian Dory would make a great coffee table book don’t you think? (h/t Josh on twitter for the link).
The North Face catches up with their athlete Alex Honnold to find out a bit more about his and Tommy Caldwell’s big day in Yosemite, his plans to rope solo the same feat for his segment in the Reel Rock Tour and a casual mention of how he free soloed the West Face of El Cap. As to how the idea for the triple link-up came about:
You do one route and you have a lot of time left in the day and you think, “Oh maybe we should have done two.” And eventually you do two with time left over and you say, “maybe we could do three…” and we did three and we didn’t have any time left over so we said, “we’re over it.”
More detail and pictures from Kelly Cordes on the big day here as well.
According to his 8a scorecard, Jon Cardwell has repeated Bad Girls Club, a 5.14d in Rifle, CO first done last summer by Matty Hong.
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