MSA Redpoint Descender Auto Belay Discontinued Indefinitely
09. Dec, 2009 
20 Comments
Climbers all over the world are going to have to go back to a more quaint time (2002?) when one actually had to make friends in order to climb routes in a gym, at least if their gym uses the Redpoint Descender auto belay device manufactured by MSA.
Back in October, MSA issued a stop-use notice after two climbers were injured in auto belay accidents:
MSA very recently became aware of two incidents where climbers using Redpoint Descenders experienced rapid rates of descent resulting in injuries. Our preliminary investigation indicates an issue with the one-way bearings provided by our supplier, which may prevent the brakes from engaging during descent. Due to the nature of this condition, the users were not able to detect the problem before the rapid descents occurred.
After evaluating the situation these past 2 months, MSA decided to get out of the auto belay business completely instead of trying to fix the problem (emphasis mine):
As you are already aware, MSA issued a Stop-Use Notice on Redpoint and Auto-Belay Descenders on October 14, 2009 and a subsequent Stop-Use Notice Update on November 3, 2009. The Stop-Use Notices were emailed and mailed to all Redpoint and affected Auto-Belay purchasers that MSA has on record. After conducting a thorough investigation, MSA is planning to discontinue the Redpoint Descender.
MSA did not make this decision lightly, and we regret any inconvenience this action may cause. As you are aware, there are alternative belay systems available from other manufacturers. While we regret having to take this action, the overriding need to ensure the safety of all those using our product on recreational climbing walls is our highest priority. With this action, MSA is effectively exiting the recreational market for climbing wall auto-belay systems.
This decision has left gyms using the Redpoint Descender in a bit of a pinch. At least one gym, Boulder’s Movement, has introduced a new program aimed at connecting people looking for route climbing partners until they can come up with an alternate, more trustworthy, auto belay system.
I’d be interested to know just how many gyms were using this auto belay so if your gym used the Redpoint Descender please share in the comments.
Update: Here’s an excellent comment from StellarTemple who works at a gym. Keep them coming.
I work at Vertical Endeavors in St. Paul. We had 6 of them that we had to take down. We still have nine up that work on a hydraulic system. As far as I know there are no other companies that make self-contained auto-belay systems such as the Redpoint Descender. All the other auto-belay systems out there need to have a hydraulic system permanently fixed to the wall. Alot of gyms are going to have a problem going that route because they are very expensive, and really you need to build your gym with their presence in mind. They take up a lot of wall space, something climbing gyms dont really have to spare. The word I’ve heard regarding MSA is that they are going bankrupt so their withdrawl from this fiasco might be an attempt to stop some bleeding.
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Saw this last night via a Nicros email as well and can’t help but wonder – aren’t there other manufacturers? Was MSA the only game in town?
I liked occasionally using the auto-belays. They’re great for warming up and getting some laps in.
Our gym has this nifty built in system now, but we used to have something that looked similar to the MSA devices. I’ll have to check to be sure.
No. There is an alternative system!
A lot of our existing customers for whom we built climbing walls have been coming to us complaining about this problem.
We have a solution that is similar in size and shape to the Red Points. It has a double centrifugal break system and can be easily swapped for the Red Point Descenders.
Can you send me contact details for your company and the cost of your type of descender pleaSE
You can contact me directly at daniel@safeclimb.com. For more information about the auto belay go to http://www.safeclimb.com and more information about the company you can find at http://www.climbpyramide.com
I work at Upper Limits Bloomington and we have ten of them sitting. Usually five set up in the gym and also used them on portable walls. We haven’t found any other models that aren’t built into/behind the wall, and the walls that had autobelays are concrete…
From what I know these things are really expensive. Are gyms just left holding the bag on these now unsupported auto belays?
Yea they are far from cheap to purchase and then cost hundreds to get rebuilt/refurbished each year.
In the DC area Sportrock used them, (they’ve been down since the stop use notice). I never saw them at the Earth Treks gyms.
I’m wondering how word will get out to small time owners (park systems, scoutgroups, camps, carnies etc).
-C
One of the gyms I go to (Cliffhanger Coquitlam) had 3 set up. They were nice occasionally for getting in some laps or warming up.
They disappeared a few months ago and just never came back. Seems like this is why.
-Matt
Hangar 18 southbay used to have 2 of them. They went in for service just before the recall and never came back… its a shame b/c i used to use them to run laps to warm up and i hate being a toprope belayer
I work at Vertical Endeavors in St. Paul. We had 6 of them that we had to take down. We still have nine up that work on a hydraulic system. As far as I know there are no other companies that make self-contained auto-belay systems such as the Redpoint Descender. All the other auto-belay systems out there need to have a hydraulic system permanently fixed to the wall. Alot of gyms are going to have a problem going that route because they are very expensive, and really you need to build your gym with their presence in mind. They take up a lot of wall space, something climbing gyms dont really have to spare. The word I’ve heard regarding MSA is that they are going bankrupt so their withdrawl from this fiasco might be an attempt to stop some bleeding.
Thanks for the excellent thoughts.
We have the hydraulic system as well. I couldn’t believe how expensive they were, but they sure are nice. I was under the impression that the Redpoint Descenders were also very expensive so it’s got to be especially frustrating for all the gyms that have them and now can’t use them.
The Redpoint Descenders are about $3,000-5,000. Very frustrating for those stuck with them.
“Climbers all over the world are going to have to go back to a more quaint time (2002?) when one actually had to make friends in order to climb routes in a gym”
LOL.
Narc-As usual you have your finger on the pulse of the industry. Their are a few issues with the Roses being discontinued. Like many of the other folks have commented, the Auto-belay has become a vital tool in a modern climbing gym. We have built a business around the auto belay from walk in families who can easily access our facility without a class to members buying memberships because they come in without their unreliable partner. I can bring in my family and my wife and swap off semi watching our kids and climbing. Now MSA discontinues the program. Now what? A lot of gyms are going to be hurting. For businesses who operate on a very thing margin it has the potential to put gyms under. The worst part is MSA is currently in the process of deciding who they will be reimbursing and for how much. I can sense that a lot of gyms will not “qualify”. We will see what happens. Spectrum sports makes an awesome auto belay. Thanks for the post.
Looks like Rockwerx may have something…
http://www.rockwerxclimbing.com/3229.xml
check these guys out: http://www.extremeengineering.com This says that they have the patent on the hydraulic system.
Looks like the Rockwerx system is the same as the red point descender just with 2 brakes instead of one. If one brake fails, what’s preventing the second one from doing the same thing. I think they are more expensive also.
I had 2 pcs
We were able to find replacement units that can be easily swapped for Red Points. We’re currently providing them to our existing customers but if you need 2 units we can order those for you. Please e-mail me if you need them.