First climbed several years back by Jason Kehl, the boulder problem The New Zero in Southern Illinois’ Holy Boulders stood as an unrepeated V13 testpiece until it was repeated by Brian Capps a few months ago. The sendtrain is now on as both James Webb and Jon Glassberg repeated The New Zero during their weekend trip to SoIll for the problem’s 3rd and 4th ascents. Here is how Glassberg describes the crux of The New Zero:
The crux involves a long lock off to a very bad and weird left hand sloper. From that position you have to hand heel match and thrutch to a blind sloping rail over the lip that is very hard to stick and the fall is a bit intimidating. We gave it a bit of rest as a very cold breeze picked up and 30 minutes later Jimmy miraculously stuck the move and sent the problem! I had a very good try where I stuck the hold but barely touched the tree and I knew it was going to go.
The next attempt was perfect, I grabbed the left hand sloper perfectly and tossed up and snagged the rail with all four fingers and held the swing, pogoed to the finish jug and I was on top.
You can read the rest of the trip report at Glassberg’s blog.
Here is a brief video from their trip that includes Brion Voges climbing Shadow of a Man (V5), Nate Draughn climbing Jungle Book (V8) and Jon Glassberg climbing the aforementioned The New Zero (V13).
The Holy Boulders in Southern Illinois from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.
For more on Jon Glassberg, check out a recent interview he did with It Came From The Garage.
