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Urs Moosmuller Climbing Father’s Day (5.14a)

Posted August 18, 2014 at 8:11 am · Comments { 0 } ·

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Rock Climbing Classics – EP #5 Grand Illusion (5.13b)

Posted July 23, 2014 at 2:26 pm · Comments { 5 } ·

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→ 1975∞

Posted July 23, 2014 at 8:52 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Sonnie Trotter:

In 1975 three Rockies legends scoured The Bow Valley in search of the next great aid line. At the time, they were preparing themselves for a very early repeat of the Shield on El Capitan in Yosemite, and hoped to find the perfect training ground close to home.
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The Shield is a thin, technically challenging seam, and the three local boys (found in this photo below), finally discovered what they thought would be the ideal line, a rare and steep splitter finger crack on a blank wall.
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Cool story.

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Sonnie Trotter

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→ 7 In 7∞

Posted July 17, 2014 at 7:44 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Dave Allfrey, writing for Alpinist about his and Alex Honnold’s recent efforts to climb El Capitan seven times in seven consecutive days:

In the end I believe we found what we were looking for–a physical and mental endurance challenge and a grand adventure on El Capitan. We hoped to enchain in-a-day ascents and find a new level of difficulty.
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We wanted to test our big-wall skill and efficiency to see if we could make this possible.

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Alex Honnold, Dave Allfrey

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Yosemite

Big Wall Free Climbing Adventures In Yosemite

Posted July 17, 2014 at 7:36 am · Comments { 0 } ·

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→ 3rd Free Ascent Of PreMuir By Elias & Kerzhner∞

Posted July 3, 2014 at 8:08 am · Comments { 5 } ·

Rock & Ice caught up with Sam Elias after he and Mike Kerzhner did the 3rd free ascent of PreMuir (5.13+) on El Capitan in Yosemite, CA:

He fired it [the crux stem corner pitch]. Then, so did I. It wasn’t romantic. It was a nerve-racking nightmare. It required all my physical strength, as well as my mental resolve. This pitch always haunted my thoughts, and I felt that if we could get through it, we’d have a really good chance. We easily dispatched the next 5.13a pitch, and when the day was over, we were psyched.

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