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→ Favresse Frees Hard Crack Project In Norway∞

Posted May 28, 2013 at 7:54 am · Comments { 0 } ·

Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse has done the FA of The Recovery Drink in Jossingfjord, Norway, calling it his hardest crack climb yet1:

I sent the pitch placing gear on lead except for a few pieces in the easier sections which I had left in place to make it easier to clean the route after each try, because it’s very overhanging. So a slightly purer ascent could still be done. The pitch is about 35m long and has no bolts, neither on the route itself nor at the belays.

You can see some footage of the route here.

  1.  Bear in mind that Favresse is no stranger to hard crack climbing having repeated lines like Squamish’s Cobra Crack (5.14) ↩
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A Day On The Diamond With Josh Wharton

Posted May 24, 2013 at 10:17 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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→ Tragic Death On El Capitan∞

Posted May 21, 2013 at 7:31 am · Comments { 6 } ·

Tragic news from high on El Cap this past Sunday:

An experienced climber, Mason Robison was leading the 27th pitch of the 3,000-foot granite wall at about 9 a.m., when a large rock flake holding a piece of safety gear broke loose. The rock gave way while Robison, 38, was climbing at 2,300 feet above the monolith’s base, and severed a rope that was fastening him to a belay station manned by his climbing partner. He fell past the station before a haul rope caught him and seized the fall, but the injuries were fatal.

SuperTopo has a good thread about the situation as well.

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→ 5.14 Trad Ascent By James Pearson∞

Posted May 14, 2013 at 7:45 am · Comments { 0 } ·

A few weeks old, but this a nice report by James Pearson about his efforts to do the 2nd ascent of an old 5.14 sport route in La Balma, Switzerland called A Denti Tretti on natural gear:

when I first came to look at the route 1 week ago there were cobwebs in the cracks and it had obviously been a long time since anyone’s last visit.  Perhaps its the obvious difficulty in leaving the floor that puts people off, but past that initial section, the route looked just as good, if not better than its popular neighbour.
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  Even better still, it looked to be relatively well protected, and I decided to give it an on-sight attempt, directly on trad gear!
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Mason Earle’s FA Of Real Talk (5.13+), Lower Mill Creek

Posted May 12, 2013 at 7:44 pm · Comments { 3 } ·
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Daniel Jung And Nico And Olivier Favresse Climbing First Ascents In Norway

Posted May 9, 2013 at 12:19 pm · Comments { 0 } ·
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→ Unfinished Business∞

Posted May 7, 2013 at 2:23 pm · Comments { 6 } ·

Steve Bechtel, writing about a first ascent that was done in Wyoming recently:

When Micah first walked up to the climb last year, the face had already been bolted. There were anchors on top. It was a ready-to-climb classic.  Like many of the other hard and great yet-to-be-climbed projects, someone had tried it before. That someone was Todd Skinner.

…snip…

Below is a list of a few of the most significant Skinner projects still awaiting first ascents. This is by no means exhaustive.
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Any takers?

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