Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills have redpointed the first 5.14 route up the Diamond on Longs Peak, the premier granite wall in Colorado’s high mountains. The two free-climbed the full Dunn-Westbay aid line in four rope-stretching pitches, with an 80-meter crux second pitch (5.14a).
It’s also worth giving credit to Caldwell and Jonathan Siegrist who gave up their efforts on the route last week to assist with a nearby rescue operation underway to help a badly inured climber.
Jonathan Siegrist writes about his experience repeating a mixed route called The Almighty (5.14a) in Teton Canyon, WY that was first done by local Ty Mack in 2011:
This is one of my favorite ascents to date – I feel that it is my hardest trad lead and it was a really cool process to get there. Ty suggested .14a for The Almighty and I think personally I would suggest .14b for the short person method through the lower and upper cruxes. Because of size we really did climb the route entirely different.
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Ty’s effort here isreally sick, and I want to make a point to congratulate him again for his efforts opening The Almighty — there really is nothing else like it!
It’s always cool to read these stories of off the radar routes established by off the radar bone crushers.
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