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Joe Kinder’s Summer Road Trip: Chapter 5 – Portland, OR

Posted August 7, 2012 at 10:59 am · Comments { 0 } ·
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Wyoming’s Potential

Posted August 6, 2012 at 7:00 am · Comments { 4 } ·

Mike Williams with a great post about one of the many new routes he bolted in Wyoming this summer:

For a century, Steamboat the bucking horse has symbolized the spirit of the state. Wild and still untamed, it’s possible to step off of any road in Wyoming and find yourself in immediate wilderness. The countryside in the Bighorns will never be reigned in. They’re too big, too wild, and hold too many secrets.
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5.14b For Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou

Posted July 26, 2012 at 10:16 am · Comments { 0 } ·

In a repeat of what happened earlier this year in the Red River Gorge, 49-year-old Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou has followed closely on the heels of 11-year-old daughter Brooke’s success in repeating Welcome To Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain.  Like Brooke, this was Robyn’s first of the grade, and while I’m not willing to get as hyperbolic as the fine folks at 8a.nu, Robyn’s career is pretty remarkable: multiple time World Cup champion, 5.14a back in the 90’s, multiple 5.
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14as in the past few weeks and now this.

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Edu Marin “Re-enacts” His Onsight Of Pengim Penjam (5.14b)

Posted July 23, 2012 at 8:41 pm · Comments { 1 } ·
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“I Can’t Be A Climber Forever”

Posted July 23, 2012 at 12:47 pm · Comments { 24 } ·

Sasha DiGiulian speaks to her plan of enrolling at Columbia this fall in a lengthy piece on her in The Washington Post:

“Most of my competitors, in the World Cup circuit especially, are just climbing,” DiGiulian adds. “But I decided to go back to school.
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Because I know that, in the long term, I can’t be a climber forever.”

The whole piece is well worth reading as you can get a good feel for the level of success DiGiulian has achieved in a rather short period of time.  While DiGiulian has always been a talented climber, remember that even two years ago she had done “only” one 5.141.  What’s she’s done in the interim both in competitions and on real rock has been well documented, and her success seems well-deserved.

  1. She’s added 20 more since then ↩
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Joe Kinder’s Summer Road Trip: Chapter 2 – Riggins, Idaho

Posted July 18, 2012 at 8:11 am · Comments { 1 } ·
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First 5.14b For 11-Year-Old Brooke Raboutou

Posted July 17, 2012 at 7:11 am · Comments { 25 } ·

According to her 8a scorecard 11-year-old Brooke Raboutou has done her first 5.14b in Welcome To Tijuana at Rodellar, Spain.  This makes her the likely youngest to ever achieve such a grade and no doubt the shortest as well.  The 50-foot power endurance route Welcome to Tijuana is a popular first 5.14b as it was Brooke’s brother Shawn’s and Sasha DiGiulian’s first as well.  It only took DiGiulian 14 months to make the jump from her first 5.
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14b to climbing 5.14d, I wonder how long it will take Brooke??

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